LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

ffo^sS ^m*W ^ 

Shelf ^Mrf 

UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. 



THE 



COOKING MANUAL 

OF 



PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR ECONOMICAL 
EVERY-DAY COOKERY, 



BY / 

juliet Corson. 

SUPERINTENDENT OF THE NEW YORK SCHOOL OF COOKERY. 



uthor of "Text Book for Cooking Schools and Housekeepers* 
Guide.'" "Twenty-five Cent Dinners for Families 
of Six." "Meals for the Million.'" "Diet 
for Invalids and Children" Etc. 



V 



EIGHTH THOUSAND, ENLARGED AND REVISED. 

("MAY 17 1 886" ) 

NEW YORK: V>x / 

DODD, MEAD & CoW^i^^' 

Publishers. 




COPTBIGHT 

Y JULIET CORSON 
1877 

COFYBIGHT 

BY JULIET CORSON 
1879 



PREFACE. 



This book is intended for the use of those house- 
keepers and cooks who wish to know how to make 
the most wholesome and palatable dishes at the least 
possible cost. In cookery this fact should be re- 
membered above all others ; a good cook never 
wastes. It is her pride to make the most of every- 
thing in the shape of food entrusted to her care ; and 
her pleasure to serve it in the most appetizing form. 
In no other way can she prove her excellence ; for 
poor cooks are always wasteful and extravagant. 

Housekeepers can safely make this book a guide 
for those of their cooks who are willing to learn new 
and good methods of cooking familiar foods. Lest 
it should be said that undue preference is given to 
foreign ways of cooking, the author begs her readers 
to remember how much of the success of any dish 
depends upon its taste ; if it is well-flavored, and 
palatably seasoned, the eaters of it do not closely 
criticise its component parts. It is just there that 
benefit is derived from European culinary skill ; the 
* judicious use of a few inexpensive sweet herbs, and 
savory sauces, will raise a side dish, made from the 
cheapest cut of meat, in gustatory excellence far 



4 



PREFACE. 



above a badly cooked porterhouse steak, or a large 
but poorly flavored roast. Because the art of utiliz- 
ing every part of food is eminently French, the New 
York School of Cookery plan has been to adapt for- 
eign thrift to home kitchen use. To provide enough 
at each meal ; to cook and serve it so as to invite 
appetite ; to make a handsome and agreeable dish 
out of the materials which the average cook would 
give away at the door, or throw among the garbage ; 
all are accomplishments that our American wives and 
daughters will be glad to learn from their European 
sisters. 

The day has passed for regarding cooking as a 
menial and vulgar labor ; and those who give some 
thought to their daily food usually gain in vigor and 
cheerfulness. It is a truism that food is concen- 
trated force. The manipulation of a motive power 
capable of invigorating both body and mind, is an 
occupation worthy to employ intelligence and skill. 
In countries where the people depend upon meagre 
supplies this art is brought to perfection. The 
pot-au-feu of France and Switzerland, the olla pod- 
rida of Spain, the borsch of Poland, the tschi of 
Russia, the macaroni of Italy, the crowdie of Scotland, 
all are practical examples of this fact. In no coun- 
try in the world is there such an abundance of food 
as in America ; all the needful ingredients for mak- 
ing these national dishes, or their equivalents, can 
be found in the markets of our cities, and most of 
them are the products of this country. This being 
true, there is no reason why American cookery 



PRE FA CE. 



5 



should be so comparatively limited — why the ques- 
tion of u what shall we have for dinner to-day ? 
should be the despair of the inexperienced house- 
keeper. If in no other land is there such profusion 
of food, certainly in none is so much wasted from 
sheer ignorance, and spoiled by bad cooking. In 
Europe provinces would live upon what towns waste 
here. The very herbs of the field in the hands of a 
skilful cook can be transformed into palatable and 
nutritious viands. The plainest and cheapest ma- 
terials can be prepared for the table in an appetizing 
and satisfactory form. Let our readers test this fact 
by cooking according to the receipt any dish named 
in the chapter upon "Cheap Dishes without 
Meat," and the author will stake her culinary 
reputation that the food so prepared will be both 
palatable and nourishing. 

Many persons regard the practice of serving sev- 
eral dishes at a meal as troublesome and expensive. 
The first objection may hold good ; but the best 
results in any direction are never gained without 
trouble. The second is wholly untenable ; soup, 
fish, vegetables, and bread, are all less costly than 
heavy joints of meat; if hunger can be partly satis- 
fied on them, and it is true that a tjiick slice of bread 
and a bowl of soup will content the hungriest 
stomach, less meat will be required, and consequently 
less expense incurred. This is an excellent reason 
why the housewife should not spend the bulk of her 
market money on a large roast of beef, or a leg of 
mutton, but should rather divide the amount among 



6 



PREFACE. 



the different dishes of soup, fish, a ragout, or stew 
of some cheap cut of meat, and a few vegetables ; 
and now and then indulge in a plain pudding, or a 
little fruit for dessert. With judicious marketing 
and proper cooking, the food of our well-to-do 
classes might be made far better than two-thirds of 
that now served on the tables of the wealthy ; and 
the poor might learn that their scrag-end of mutton 
would furnish them with at least three dishes. To 
forward in some measure this result, the present col- 
lection of Cookery School receipts is offered to the 
public, with the assurance that every one given has 
been tested by the author, and is complete in every 
detail, as economical as care and use can make it, 
and plain enough for ordinary households. The 
quantities mentioned in the various receipts are cal- 
culated to serve for a family of eight persons, when 
two or more dishes constitute a dinner, with the 
addition of soup ; of course when only one dish is 
to form the meal, with bread and vegetables, a larger 
quantity must be allowed. 

Communications from all parts of the country 
state that the principles of kitchen economy as taught 
in the New York School of Cookery and widely dis- 
seminated by the press, have been put into practice 
in many families, to the great improvement of health 
and temper; for an illy fed man can neither be 
strong nor cheerful ; the hours spent at table should 
be full of harmony and content, or the meal will fail 
to meet the requirements of the body. The question 
of the hour is " How well can we live, if we are mod- 



PREFACE. 



1 



erately poor ? " The author of The Cooking 
Manual is doing her best to answer it satisfactorily. 
She has worked earnestly in a comparatively new field 
of labor, and she prays that strong hands may unite 
in the effort to show how excellent a thing it is to 
make the best and most of the bountiful supply our 
country's teeming bosom bears at every harvest tide. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 
General Rules for Marketing. 

FAG1 

Meats — Poultry — Game — Fisli — Vegetables — Fruit — Sweet 

Herbs 15 



CHAPTER II. 
Soup. 

General Stock — Flavoring, thickening, and coloring Soups 
— Consomme — Vermicelli and Macaroni Soup — Rice 
and Tomato Soup — Scotch Broth without Meat — 
Scotch Broth with Meat — Spinach Soup — Sorrel Soup 
— Pea Soup — Lentil Soup 22 

CHAPTER III. 
Fish. 

Baked Blackfish— Broiled Shad with Maitre cT hotel But- 
ter — Fried Smelts — Fillet of Sole au gratin — Fish 
Chowder, St. James style — Club House Fish Cakes — 
Sardine Sandwiches — Warmed up Boiled Fish, with 
Dutch Sauce 31 



IO 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER IV. 
Relishes. 

PAGI 

Anchovies — Sardines — Pickled Herrings— Scalloped Oys- 
ters — Welsh Rarebit — Golden Buck — Mock Crab — 
English Bread and Butter — Epicurean Butter 37 

CHAPTER V. 
Side Dishes or Entrees. 

Beef Steak, with Parisian Potatoes — Plain Rump Steak — 
Portuguese Beef — Bubble and Squeak — Stewed Kid- 
neys — Haricot or Stew of Mutton — Epigramme of 
Lamb with Piquante Sauce — Spanish Sauce — Krom- 
eskys with Spanish Sauce — Sheep's Tongues with 
Spinach — Broiled Sheep's Kidneys — Liver Rolls — 
Fried Brains with Tomato Sauce—Calf's Liver 
larded — Blanquette of Veal — Stuffed Breast of Veal 
— Pork Cutlets with Robert Sauce — Pork Chops with 
Curry — Broiled Pigs' Feet — English Pork Pie — 
Fried Chicken, Spanish Style — Chicken Fricassee 
— Grilled Fowl — Minced Chicken with Macaroni — 
Broiled Pigeons — Salmi of Duck — Civet of Hare — Jug- 
ged Hare — Stuffed Eggs — How to make Omelettes — 
Plain Omelette — Omelette with fine Herbs — Omelette 
with Ham — Omelette with Oysters — Omelette with 
Mushrooms — Spanish Omelette — Oriental Omelette 
— Omelette with Preserves — How to cook Macaroni 
—Macaroni with Bechamel Sauce — Macaroni Milan- 



CONTENTS. 



i»agb 

aise Style — Macaroni with Tomato Sauce — Timbale 
of Macaroni, with Vanilla Cream Sauce 41 

/ 

CHAPTER VI. 
Large Roasts. 

Roast Beef with Yorkshire Pudding — Roast Loin of Veal 
stuffed — Roast Lamb with Mint Sauce — Roast Pork 
with Apple Sauce — Roast Turkey with Cranberry 
Sauce — Roast Chicken with Duchesse Potatoes — 
Roast Duck with Watercresses — Roast Goose with 
Onion Sauce — Roast Wild Duck — Roast Partridge 
witk Bread Sauce • 63 



CHAPTER VII. 
Boiled Meats. 

Leg of Mutton with Caper Sauce — Boiled Ham with Ma- 
deira Sauce — A la mode Beef — Boiled Fowl with 
Oyster Sauce 78 

CHAPTER VIII. 
Salads and Salad Sauces. 

Sps'ng Salad — Watercress Salad — Mint Salad — Cauli- 
flower Salad — Dandelion Salad — Asparagus Salad 
— Shad-roe Salad — Green Pea Salad — Orange Salad 
—Spinach Salad — Tomato Salad — Nasturtium Salad 
— Cream Dressing — English Salad Sauce — Remolade 



12 



CONTENTS. 



— Sweet Sauce — Piquante Salad Sauce — Green 
Remolade — Oil Sauce — Ravigote Sauce — Egg Dress- 
ing — Anchovy Salad Sauce — Swiss Dressing — Spring 
Dressing — Mayonnaise — Hot Salad Sauce — Romaine 
Salad Dressing 83 



CHAPTER IX. 
Vegetables. 

Asparagus with Melted Butter — Green Peas — String 
Beans — Baked Beets — Brussels Sprouts — Stuffed 
Cabbage — Red Cabbage — Baked Cauliflower—Baked 
Turnips — Glazed Onions — Mushroom Pudding — 
Boiled Potatoes — Lyonnaise Potatoes — Stuffed Po- 
tatoes — Potato Snow — Bermuda Potatoes — Broiled 
Potatoes — Saratoga Potatoes — Broiled Tomatoes — 
Stuffed Tomatoes — Fried Beans—Ham and Beans — 
Kolcannon — Carrot Stew — Baked Mushrooms — Stuffed 
Lettuce — Stewed Parsnips 91 



CHAPTER X. 

Cheap Dishes without Meat. 

Potato Soup — Crowdie — Peas-pudding — Red Herrings with 
Boiled Potatoes — Oatmeal Porridge — Cheese Pudding 
— Polenta — Fish Pudding — Lentils — Stewed Lentils 
— Fried Lentils — Norfolk Dumplings — Salt Cod with 
Parsnips — Pickled Mackerel — Potato Pudding ...<.. 101 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XI. 
Cheap Dishes with Meat. 

PAGB 

Three Dishes from a Neck of Mutton — Barley Broth 
with Vegetables — Mutton Stew — Fried Pudding 
— Neck of Pork Stuffed — Pigs' Feet Fried — Pigs' 
Tongue and Brains — Roast Tripe — Ragout of Haslet — 
Cock-a-leeky — Italian Cheese — Gammon Dumpling 
— Toad-in-the-hole — Bacon Roly-Poly — Baked Ox- 
heart — Tripe and Onions — Peas ard Bacon — Pot-au- 
Feu — Ragout of Mutton 107 



CHAPTER XII. 
the children's chapter. 

Oatmeal Porridge — A good Breakfast — Stewed Fruit — Ripe 
Currants — Blackberry Jam — Baked Fruit — Broiled 
Chops — Beefsteak — Broiled Chicken — Boiled Eggs — 
Baked Potatoes — Boiled Potatoes — Apple Cake — Fruit 
Farina — Plain Cookies — Plain Gingerbread — Straw- 
berry Shortcake — Apple Custard • 1 16 

CHAPTER XIII. 

COOKERY FOR INVALIDS. 

Gruels — Arrowroot Gruel — Arrowroot Jelly — Arrowroot 
Wine Jelly— Calf 's-foot Jelly— Sago Gruel— Sago Milk 
— Tapioca Jelly — Rice Caudle — Refreshing Drinks— 



14 



CONTENTS. 



Filtered Water — Jelly Water — Flax-seed Lemonade — 
Barley Water — Nourishing Drinks — Iceland Moss 
Chocolate — Egg Broth — Egg Tea— Very Strong Beef 
Tea — Quick Beef Tea — Farina Gruel — Nutritious 
Foods — Bread Jelly — Crackers and Marmalade — 
Chicken Jelly — Chicken Broth — Beefsteak Juice — Sal- 
mon Steak — Broiled Oysters 125 



CHAPTER XIV. 

BREAD. 

Aerated Homemade Bread— Homebrewed Yeast— Home- 
made Bread — Milk Bread — Rice Bread — Potato 
Bread — Pulled Bread — Baking Powder- — Loaf Bread — 
Breakfast Rolls— Tea Biscuit — Finger Biscuit — Cream 
Breakfast Rolls— Breakfast Twist — How to freshen 
tftale Bread— Toast .r .... 134 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



CHAPTER I. 
MARKETING. 

In order to market intelligently and economi- 
cally, we must bear in mind the three great divisions 
of foods generally accepted in their consideration, 
and endeavor to adapt them to the requirements of 
our households ; if we remember that carbonaceous, 
or heat-giving foods, such as the inner part of the 
cereals, fat meat, milk, honey, liver, grapes, peas, 
beans, potatoes, beets, carrots, and parsnips, are the 
best diet for hard steady workers, and for invalids 
suffering from wasting diseases ; that nitrogenous, or 
flesh-forming foods, such as lean meat, unbolted 
flour, oatmeal, eggs, cheese, cabbage, cauliflower, 
onions, spinach, asparagus, and artichokes, are 
most suitable for those w T ho work rapidly but with 
intervals of rest ; and that brain-workers should sub- 
sist chiefly on light and digestible articles, such as 
fish, oystevs, fruits, game, and vegetables containing 
mineral salts in excess ; we can arrange the daily 
marketing so as to give a pleasant variety and at the 
same time satisfy all appetites. 

Buy only small quantities of perishable things 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



such as green vegetables, fruit, fish, eggs, cream, and 
fresh butter ; buy dry groceries and preserved stores 
in quantities large enough to entitle you to whole- 
sale prices ; and pay cash in order to avail yourself 
of the lowest market price. Make your purchases 
as early in the day as possible in order to secure a 
choice of fresh articles ; and trade with respectable 
dealers who give full weight and honest measure. 

Meats. — While meats are in season all the year, 
they are better at stated times ; for instance, pork is 
prime in late autumn and winter; veal should be 
avoided in summer for sanitary rj^sons ; and even 
our staples, beef and mutton, v«iry in quality. The 
flesh of healthy animals is haid and fresh colored, 
the fat next the skin is firm znd thick, and the suet 
or kidney-fat clear white and abundant ; if this fat is 
soft, scant and stringy, the animal has been poorly 
fed or overworked. Beef should be of a bright red 
color, well marbled with yellowish fat, and sur- 
rounded with a thick outside layer of fat ; poor beef 
is dark red, and full of gristle, and the fat is scant and 
oily. Mutton is bright red, with plenty of hard white 
tat; poor mutton is dull red in color, with dark 
muddy-looking fat. Veal and pork should be bright 
flesh color with abundance of hard, white, semi- 
transparent fat ; when the fat is reddish and dark, 
the meat is of an inferior quality ; veal and pork 
should be eaten very fresh. When meat of any kind 
comes into the house h should be hung up at onct 
in some cool, dark pk.ee, and left until wanted. 

Poultry. — Frer.h poultry may be known by its 



MARKETING, 



17 



full bright eyes, pliable feet, and soft moist skin ; the 
best is plump, fat, and nearly white, and the grain 
jf the flesh is fine. The feet and neck of a young 
fowl are large in proportion to its size, and the tip 
of the breast-bone is soft, and easily bent between 
the fingers ; the body of a capon is large, fat, and 
round, the head comparatively small, and the comb 
pale and withered ; a young cock has short, loose, 
soft spurs, and a long, full, bright red comb ; old 
fowls have long, thin necks and feet, and the flesh 
on the legs and back has a purplish shade ; chickens, 
capons, and fowls, are always in season. / 

Turkeys when good are white and plump, have 
full breasts and smooth legs, generally black, with soft, 
loose spurs;, hen turkeys are smaller, fatter, and 
plumper, but of inferior flavor ; full grown turkeys 
are the best for boning and boiling, as they do not 
tear in dressing; old turkeys have long hairs, and the 
flesh is purplish where it shows under the skin on 
the legs and back. About March they deteriorate in 
quality. Turkey-poults are tender, but lack flavor. 

Young ducks and geese are plump, with light, 
semi-transparent fat, soft breast-bone, tender flesh, 
leg joints which will break by the weight of the bird, 
fresh colored and brittle beaks, and windpipes that 
break when pressed between the thumb and fore- 
finger. They are best in fall and winter. 

Young pigeons have light red flesh upon the 
breast, and full, fresh colored legs ; when the legs 
are thin, and the breast is very dark, the birds are 
old. Squabs are tender and delicious. 



1 8 THE COOKING MANUAL. 



The giblets of poultry consist of the head, neck, 
wings, feet, gizzard, heart, and liver ; and make good 
soup, fricassees, pies, and various entrees^ or side 
dishes. 

Game. — Fine game birds are always heavy for 
their size ; the flesh of the breast is firm and plump, 
the skin clear ; and if a few feathers be plucked from 
the inside of the leg and around the vent, the flesh of 
freshly killed birds will be fat and fresh colored ; if 
it is dark, and discolored, the game has been hung 
a long time. The wings of good ducks, geese, pheas- 
ants, and woodcock are tender to the touch ; the 
tips of the long wing feathers of partridges are pointed 
in young birds, and round in old ones. Quail, 
snipe, and small birds should have full tender breasts. 

Young rabbits and hares have short necks, thick 
knees, and forepaws which can be easily broken ; 
old ones are very poor. 

Buffalo meat is somewhat similar in appearance 
to beef, save that the flesh is darker, and the fat 
redder; it is tender and juicy when it has been kept 
long enough, say about two months in winter ; the 
tongue, when cured, is excellent. 

Venison should be tender, and very fat, or it will 
be dry and tasteless. 

Bear meat, when fat and tender, is savory and 
nourishing. 

Fish. — Sea fish, and those which live in both 
salt and fresh water, such as salmon, shad, and smelts, 
are the finest flavored ; the muddy taste of some 
fresh water species can be overcome by soaking them 



MARKETING. 



»9 



in cold water and salt for two hours or more before 
cooking; all kinds are best just before spawning, the 
flesh becoming poor and watery after that period. 
Fresh fish have firm flesh, rigid fins, bright, cleai 
eyes, and ruddy gills. 

Oysters, clams, scallops, and mussels, should be 
eaten very fresh, as they soon lose their flavor after 
being removed from the shell. 

Lobsters and crabs should be chosen by their 
brightness of color, lively movement, and great 
weight in proportion to their size. 

Vegetables. — All juicy vegetables should be 
very fresh and crisp ; and if a little wilted, can be 
restored by being sprinkled with water and laid in 
a cool, dark place ; all roots and tubers should be 
pared and laid in cold water an hour or more before 
using. Green vegetables are best just before they 
flower ; and roots and tubers are prime from their 
lipening until spring germination begins. 

Fruit. — All fruit should be purchased ripe and 
sound ; it is poor economy to buy imperfect or de- 
cayed kinds, as they are neither satisfactory nor 
healthy eating ; while the mature, full-flavored sort 
are invaluable as food. [ 

Sweet Herbs. — Sweet and savory herbs are 
absolutely indispensable to good cooking ; they give 
variety and savory flavors to any dish into which 
they enter, and are nearly all of some decided sani- 
tary use ; the different kinds called for in the various 
receipts further on in this work can be bought at 
almost any grocery store, or in the market ; but we 



20 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



advise our readers to obtain seeds from some good 
florist and make little kitchen gardens of their own, 
even if the space planted be only a box of mould in 
the kitchen window. Sage, thyme, summer savory, 
sweet marjoram, tarragon, sweet basil, rosemary, 
mint, burnet, chervil, dill, and parsley, will grow 
abundantly with very little care; and when dried, 
and added judiciously to food, greatly improve its 
flavor. Parsley, tarragon and fennel, should be dried 
in May, June, and July, just before flowering; mint 
in June and July; thyme, marjoram, and savory in 
July and August; basil and sage in August and 
September ; all herbs should be gathered in the sun- 
shine, and dried by artificial heat ; their flavor is best 
preserved by keeping them in air-tight tin cans. 

Bay leaves can be procured at any drug store, 01 
German grocery, at a very moderate expense ; they 
have the flavor of laurel. 

An excellent and convenient spice-salt can be 
made by drying, powdering, and mixing by repeated 
sittings the following ingredients : one quarter of an 
ounce each of powdered thyme, bay-leaf, and pep- 
fper ; one eighth of an ounce each of rosemary, mar- 
joram, and cayenne pepper, or powdered capsicums; 
one half of an ounce each of powdered clove and 
nutmeg ; to every four ounces of this powder add 
one ounce of salt, and keep the mixture in an air- 
tight vessel. One ounce of it added to three pounds 
of stuffing, or forcemeat of any kind, makes a de 
licious seasoning. 

A bouquet of Sweet herbs. — The bouquet 



MARKETING. 



21 



:>r fagot, of sweet herbs, so often called for in foreign 
cooking, is made as follows : wash three or foul 
sprigs of parsley, lay in their midst one sprig of thyme, 
and two bay leaves ; fold the parsley over the thyme 
and bay leaves, tie it in a cork-shaped roll, aboiu 
three inches long and one inch thick. The bouquet 
is used for seasoning soups, sauces, stews, and savory 
dishes in general, and is removed when the dish is 
served. 



CHAPTER II. 



SOUPS. 

Soup is the most satisfactory and nourishing of 
all dishes when it is properly made. Its value de- 
pends upon what is put into it, but even in its most 
economical form it constitutes a hearty meal when 
eaten with bread and vegetables. It can be made 
from the merest scraps and trimmings of meat ; from 
the heads, tails, and feet of animals ; from the bones 
and skin of fish ; and from cereals and vegetables 
alone. Pot liquor in which meat has been boiled 
should always be saved and used for soup the next 
day, when by the removal of all fat, by careful skim- 
ming, and the addition of a few vegetables or some 
dumplings, rice, or macaroni, it will make a palatable 
broth. Experiments made by French chemists prove 
that the delicacy and richness of soup may be in- 
ceased by first soaking the meat in tepid water 
enough to cover it, and adding this to the second 
water in which the meat is put over the fire, just as 
it reaches the boiling point. 

i. General Stock. — Part I. — Where there is 
a family of any size it is well to keep a clean pot or 
sauce-pan on the back of the stove to receive all the 
clean scraps of meat, bones, and remains of poultry 



SOUPS, 



23 



and game, which are found in every kitchen; but 
vegetables should not be put into it, as they are apt 
to sour. The proper proportions for soup are one 
pound of meat and bone to one and a half quarts of 
cold water ; the meat and bones to be well chopped 
and broken up, and put over the fire in cold water, 
being brought slowly to a boil, and carefully skim- 
med as often as any scum rises ; and being main- 
tained at a steady boiling point from two to six 
hours, as time permits ; one hour before the stock is 
done, add to it one carrot and one turnip pared, one 
onion stuck with three cloves, and a bouquet of sweet 
herbs. 

Part II. — When the soup is to be boiled six hours, 
two quarts of cold water must be allowed to every 
pound of meat ; this will be reduced to one quart in 
boiling. Two gills of soup are usually allowed for each 
person at table when it is served as the first part of the 
dinner, and meats are to follow it. Care should be 
taken that the stock-pot boils slowly and constantly, 
from one side, as rapid and irregular boiling clouds and 
darkens the stock as much as imperfect skimming. 
Stock should never be allowed to cool in the stock- 
pot, but should be strained into an earthen jar, and 
left standing to cool uncovered, and all the fat re- 
moved, and saved to clarify for drippings ; the stock 
is then ready to heat and use for soup, or gravy. 
When stock has been darkened and clouded by care- 
less skimming and fast boiling, it can be clarified by 
adding to it one egg and the shell, mixed first with a 
gill of cold water, then with a gill of boiling soup, 



24 



THE COOKING MANUAL, 



and stirring it briskly into the soup until it boils ; 
then remove it to the back of the fire where it will 
boil slowly, and let it stand until the white and shell of 
the egg have collected the small particles clouding the 
soup; then strain it once or twice, until it looks clear. 

2. Flavoring, thickening, and coloring 
soups, — The flavor of soup stock may be varied by 
using in it a little ham, anchovy, sausage, sugar, or 
a calf s foot. Herbs in the sprig, and whole spices 
should be used in seasoning, as they can easily be 
strained out. All delicate flavors, and wine, should 
be added to soup just before serving it, unless the 
contrary is expressly directed in the receipt, because 
boiling would almost entirely evaporate them : one 
gill of wine is usually allowed to every three pints 
of soup. 

Soups which precede a full dinner should be less 
rich than those which form the bulk of the meal. 
Corn starch, arrow root, and potato flour are better 
than wheat flour for thickening soup. The meal of 
peas and beans can be held in suspension by mixing 
together dry a tablespoonful of butter and flour, and 
stirring it into the soup ; a quarter of a pint of peas, 
beans, or lentils, is sufficient to make a quart of 
thick soup, Two ounces of macaroni, vermicelli, 
pearl barley, sago, tapioca, rice, or oatmeal, are 
usually allowed for each quart of stock. 

If you wish to darken soup use a teaspoonful of 
caramel ; but avoid burnt flour, carrot, and onion, as 
all these give a bad flavor. Caramel can be made 
from the following receipt ; melt half a pouiKl of 



SOUPS. 



25 



loaf sugar in a thick copper vessel, stirring it fre- 
quently with a wooden spoon, and boiling it slowly 
until it assumes a rich brown color, but do not let it 
burn ; when brown enough add one quart of cold 
water, stir well, and boil gently at the side of the 
fire for twenty minutes ; then cool, strain, and bottle 
tight. In using the caramel add it just as you are 
about to serve the soup, or sauce colored with it. 

3. Clear Soup, or Consomm6. {Two 
quarts for eight persons?) — This is made by strain- 
ing two quarts of stock, which has been cooled and 
freed from fat, through a piece of flannel or a napkin 
until it is bright and clear ; if this does not entirely 
clear it, use an egg, as directed for clarifying soup ; 
then season it to taste with salt, using at first a tea- 
apoonful, and a very little fine white pepper, say a 
quarter of a saltspoonful ; and color it to a bright 
straw color with caramel, of which a scant teaspoon- 
ful will be about the proper quantity. Conso?nme is 
sent to the table clear, but sometimes a deep dish 
containing poached eggs, one for each person, with 
enough consomme to cover them, accompanies it. 

4. Poached Eggs for Ccnsomm6. — Break 
the eggs, which should be very fresh, into a deep 
sauce-pan half full of boiling water, seasoned with a 
teaspoonful of salt, and half a gill of vinegar ; cover 
the sauce-pan, and set it on the back part of the fire 
until the whites of the eggs are firm ; then lift them 
separately on a skimmer, carefully trim off the rough 
edges, making each egg a regular oval shape, and 
slip them off the skimmer into a bowl of hot, but not 



26 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



boiling water, where they must stand for ten minutes 
before serving. 

5. Vermicelli and Macaroni Soup. — These 
soups are both made as for co7tsomme ; and to every 
quart of stock is added two ounces of one of these 
pastes blanched as follows. Put the paste into plenty 
of boiling water, with one tablespoonful of salt to 
each quart of water, and boil until tender enough to 
pierce with the finger nail ; then drain it, and put it 
in cold water until required for use, when it should 
be placed in the two quarts of fyot soup long enough 
to heat thoroughly before serving. 

6. Rice and Tomato Soup,— Strain, and pass 
through a sieve with a wooden spoon, one pint of 
tomatoes, either fresh or canned, stir them into two 
quarts of good, clear stock, free from fat ; season it 
with a teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoon- 
ful of pepper ; taste, and if the seasoning seems defi- 
cient add a little more, but do not put in too much 
for general liking, for more can easily be added, 
but none can be taken out. Add four ounces of 
rice, well washed in plenty of cold water, and boil 
the soup slowly for three quarters of an hour before 
serving. 

7. Scotch Broth without Meat. — Steep 
four ounces of pearl barley over night in cold water, 
and wash it well in fresh water ; cut in dice half an 
inch square, six ounces of yellow turnip, six ounces 
of carrot, four ounces of onion, two ounces of celery, 
(or use in its place quarter of a saltspoonful of celery 
seed ;) put all these into two and a half quarts of 



SOUPS. 



27 



boiling water, season with a teaspoonful of salt, 
quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and as much 
cayenne as you can take up on the point of a very 
small pen-knife blade ; boil slowly for two hours ; 
then stir in quarter of a pound of oatmeal, mixed to 
a smooth batter with cold water, see if seasoning be 
correct, add two or three grates of nutmeg, and boil 
half an hour. Meantime, cut two slices of bread in 
half inch dice, fry light brown in hot fat, and lay the 
bits in the soup tureen ; when the soup is ready 
pour it over them, and serve. This soup is very rich 
and nutritious, and should be served with light 
dinners. 

8. Scotch Broth with Meat —Put four 
ounces of barley to soak in warm water. From two 
pounds of the shoulder of mutton, cut the lean meat 
in dice half an inch square ; cut up the rest in small 
pieces and make a stock as directed in receipt No. 1., 
Part using two and a half quarts of water, and 
boiling and skimming for two hours ; at the end of 
an hour and a half put the dice of meat into a sauce- 
pan with two ounces of butter, and fry them brown ; 
stir in one ounce of flour ; cut in dice six ounces 
each of yellow turnip and carrot, chop four ounces 
of onion, and put these with the meat ; add the bar- 
ley, and the stock strained, season with a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, 
and simmer one hour. Then serve with a table 
spoonful of chopped parsley sprinkled in the soup. 

9. Spinach Soup. — Blanch two quarts of 
spinach, by putting it into a large pot full of boiling 



28 



THE COOKJNG MANUAL. 



water, with two tablespoonsful of salt, cover until it 
boils up once ; then remove the cover, and with a 
wooden spoon press the spinach under water as fast 
as it rises to the surface ; boil it steadily until it is ten- 
der enough to pierce easily with the finger nail ; then 
drain it ; run plenty of cold water from the faucet 
over it, while it is still in the colander ; drain it 
again, chop it fine, and pass it through a kitchen 
sieve with the aid of a wooden spoon ; boil two 
quarts of milk, add the spinach to it, thicken it by 
stirring in one tablespoonful of corn starch dissolved 
in cold milk ; season it with one teaspoonful of salt, 
quarter of a saltspoonful of white pepper, and the 
same of nutmeg; and serve it as soon as it boils up. 

10. Sorrel Soup. — Put one pint of sorrel into a 
saucepan with a dessert spoonful of salt, and one gill 
of cold water ; cover it, and cook until it is tender 
enough to pierce with the finger nail, then drain, 
wash it well with cold water, chop it and pass it 
through the kitchen sieve with a wooden spoon 
meantime brown half an ounce of chopped onion in 
a sauce-pan with one ounce of butter ; add one ounce 
of flour, and stir till brown; then add two quarts of 
hot water, or hot water and stock, and the sorrel, and 
season with one teaspoonful of salt, quarter of a salt- 
spoonful of pepper, and the same of nutmeg; mix 
the yolks of two eggs with two tablespoonfuls of cold 
water, add to them half a pint of boiling soup, and 
gradually stir the mixture into the soup, boiling it 
a minute after it is thoroughly blended ; meantime 
cut two slices of bread into half inch dice, fry them 



SOUPS. 



29 



brown in smoking hot fat, drain them free from grease 
on a napkin, put them into a soup tureen, pour the 
soup on them, and serve at once. 

11. Pea Soup. — Use half a pint of dried peas for 
thick soup, or one pint for a puree, to two quarts of 
stock or cold water. Bring slowly to a boil ; add a 
bone or bit of ham, one turnip and one carrot peeled, 
one onion stuck with three cloves, and simmer three 
hours stirring occasionally to prevent burning; then 
pass the soup through a sieve with the aid of a potato 
masher; and if it shows any sign of settling stir into 
it one tablespoonful each of butter and flour mixed 
together dry ; this will hold the meal in solution ; 
meantime fry some dice of stale bread, about two 
slices, cut half an inch square, in hot fat, drain them 
on a napkin, and put them in the bottom of the soup 
tureen in which the pea soup is served. 

12. Lentil Soup. — The seed of the lentil tare 
commonly cultivated in France and Germany as an 
article of food, ranks nearly as high as meat, as a 
valuable food, being capable of sustaining life and 
vigor for a long time ; this vegetable is gradually 
becoming known in this country, from the use of it 
by our French and German citizens ; and from its 
nutritive value it deserves to rank as high as our 
favorite New England beans. For two quarts of 
lentil soup half a pint of yellow lentils should be well 
washed, and put to boil in three pints of cold water, 
with a small carrot, an onion, two sprigs of parsley, 
and two bay leaves, and boiled gently until the lentils 
are soft enough to break easily between the fingers ; 



3° 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



every half hour one gill of cold water should he 
added, and the lentils again raised to the boiling 
point, until they are done ; they should then be 
drained in a colander, and passed through a sieve 
with a wooden spoon, using enough of the liquor to 
make them pass easy, and mixed with the rest of the 
soup ; it is then ready to simmer for half an hour, 
and serve hot, with dice of fried bread half an inch 
square, like those used for pea soup. These dice of 
fried bread are called Conde crusts. 



CHAPTER III. 



FISH. 

When fish is rather deficient in flavor, a little 
vinegar rubbed over the skin and a few sweet herbs 
boiled with it will greatly improve it. For boiling, 
large fish should be placed on the fire in cold water, 
and small ones in hot water; both are done when the 
fins pull out easily. Fish soup is the most economi- 
cal of all fish dishes ; baked fish the second best ; 
broiled fish retains nearly all its nourishment ; and 
boiled fish is the poorest of all. The following 
technical terms are used to denote different methods 
of cooking fish : to dress fish a la Hollandaise is to 
boil it in sea water ; a Veau de sel, in salt and water ; 
au court bouillon, with cold water, white wine or vin- 
egar, sweet herbs, soup vegetables, lemon, and whole 
spices ; a la bonne eau, with sweet herbs and cold 
water ; au bleu, in equal quantities of red wine and 
cold water, highly flavored with spices and aromatic 
herbs. 

13. Boiled Cod with Oyster Sauce. — Lay 

two pounds of cod in enough cold water to cover it, 
with a tablespoonful of salt, for an hour or more be- 
fore cooking ; then put it to boil in three quarts of 
cold water, with two tablespoon fuls of salt ; as soon 



3^ 



THE COOKING MANUAL, 



as the fish is done, set the kettle containing it off the 
fire, and let the fish stand in it until you are ready 
to use it ; meantime put a pint of oysters on the fire 
to boil in their own liquor ; as soon as they boil drain 
them, and put the liquor again on the fire to boil ; 
mix together in a sauce-pan over the fire one ounce 
of butter and one ounce of flour, as soon as it bub- 
bles, gradually pour in the boiling oyster liquor, and 
stir with an egg whip until the sauce is quite smooth ; 
season with half a teaspoonful of salt, an eighth of a 
saltspoonful of pepper, and the same of nutmeg ; and 
add the oysters. Take up the fish, serve it on a 
napkin, and send it to the table with a bowl con- 
taining the oyster sauce. 

14. Baked Blackfish. — Have a fish weighing 
from two to two and a half pounds cleaned by the 
fishmonger ; rub it well with a handful of salt, to re- 
move the slime peculiar to this fish, wash it well, and 
wipe it with a clean, dry cloth ; stuff it with the fol- 
lowing forcemeat. Put four ounces of stale bread to 
soak in sufficient luke-warm water to cover it ; mean- 
time fry one ounce of chopped onion in one ounce of 
butter until it is light brown ; then wring the bread 
dry in a clean towel, put it into the onion with two 
tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, one ounce of salt 
pork chopped fine, one teaspoonful of chopped ca- 
pers or pickles, one teaspoonful of salt, quarter of a 
saltspoonful of white pepper, and one gill of broth 
or hot water ; stir until it is scalding hot, when it 
will cleave from the bottom and sides of the sauce- 
pan ; then stuff the fish with it, and lay it in a drip 



FISH. 



33 



ping pan on one ounce of carrot and one ounce of 
onion sliced, one bay leaf and two sprigs of parsley , 
cover the fish with slices of salt pork, season it with 
a saltspoonful of salt, and one fourth that quantity 
of pepper, and bake it in a moderate oven for half 
an hour, basting it occasionally with a little butter, 
or stock. When it is done, put it on a dish to keep 
hot while you prepare a sauce by straining the drip- 
pings in the pan, and adding to them one table- 
spoonful each of walnut catsup, Worcestershire sauce, 
chopped capers, and chopped parsley. Pour a little 
of this sauce in the bottom of the dish under the 
fish, and serve the rest with it in a bowl. 

15. Broiled Shad with Maitre d'hotel 
butter. — Choose a medium sized shad, weighing 
about three pounds, have it cleaned and split down 
the back ; turn it occasionally for an hour or more, 
in a marinade made of one tablespoonful of salad 
oil, or melted butter, one of vinegar, a saltspoonful 
of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper ; lay 
it on a gridiron, rubbed with a little butter to prevent 
sticking, broil it slowly, doing the inside first, and, 
after laying it on a hot dish, spread over it some 
viaitre (F hotel butter. 

16. Maitre d'hotel Butter. — Mix together 
cold, one ounce of butter, a tablespoonful of chopped 
parsley, a teaspoonful of lemon juice, and quarter of 
a saltspoonful of pepper; and spread it over the 
broiled shad. This butter is excellent for any kind 
of broiled fish, or for steaks. 

17. Fried Smelts, French Style. — Carefully 

2* 



34 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



wipe two pounds of cleaned smelts with a dry cloth ; 
dip them in milk, then roll them in finely powdered 
cracker crumbs, next in an egg beaten with a salt- 
spoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of pep< 
per, and then again in cracker crumbs ; fry them in 
enough smoking hot fat to cover them, until they are 
golden brown ; take them from the fat with a skim* 
mer, lay them on a napkin, or a piece of paper to 
absorb all fat ; and serve them laid in rows with a 
few quarters of lemon on the side of the dish. 

1 8. Fillet of Sole an gratin, — Choose two 
flounders weighing about three pounds. Lay them 
on the table with the dark side uppermost ; with a 
sharp, thin-bladed knife cut down to the back bone, 
following the dark line in the middle of the fish; 
then turn the edge of the knife outward, and cut to- 
wards the fins, keeping the blade flat against the 
bore, and removing one quarter of the flesh of the 
fish in a single piece ; proceed in the same way until 
you have eight fillets ; carefully cut the skin from 
them ; season them with salt and pepper, lay them 
on a buttered dish suitable to send to table, sprinkle 
ill era thickly with sifted cracker crumbs, and a little 
grated Parmesan, or any rich, dry cheese; put a few 
bits of butter over them, using not more than an 
ounce in all, and brown them in a quick oven. Serve 
them as soon as they are nicely browned. This is a 
very savory and delicate dish, requiring some prac- 
tice to do nicely, but comparatively inexpensive, and 
well worth all trouble taken in making it. 

19. St. James Fish Chowder. — Put half a 



FISH. 



35 



pound of sliced salt pork in the bottom of a deep 
sauce-pan and fry it brown ; take it out, and put in 
layers of potatoes, onions and fish sliced, seasoning 
each layer plentifully with salt and pepper; using 
about three pounds of fish, and a quart each of pota- 
toes and onions ; cover with cold water, bring grad- 
ually to a boil, and cook slowly for thirty minutes ; 
then add two pounds of sea-biscuits soaked for 
five minutes in warm water, and boil five minutes 
longer and serve. This receipt calls for the ad- 
dition of half a pint of port wine, and a bottle ol 
champagne to be added to the chowder just before 
serving; but it is quite good enough without, and fai 
less expensive. 

20. Club House Fish Cakes. — Wash a,nd boil 
one quart of potatoes, putting them on the fire in 
cold water enough to cover them, and a tablespoon- - 
ful of salt. Put one and a half pounds of salt cod- 
fish on the fire in plenty of cold water, and bring it 
slowly to a boil ; as soon as it boils throw off that 
water, and put it again on the fire in fresh cold 
water; if the fish is very salt change the water a third 
time. Free the fish from skin and bone ; peel the 
potatoes, mash them through a colander with a potato 
masher, season them with quarter of a saltspoonful 
of pepper and an ounce of butter ; add the yolks of 
two eggs, and the fish ; mix well, and make into cakes, 
using a little flour to prevent sticking to the hands. 
Fry them golden brown in enough smoking hot fat 
to nearly cover them; observe that in frying any 
article erf food it will not soak fat if the latter W- hot 



36 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



enough to carbonize the outside at once, and smok- 
ing hot fat will do that. 

2 1 . Sardine Sandwiches. — Butter sixteen 
thin slices of bread on both sides, put between each 
two a very thin layer of sardines, sprinkled with a 
little lemon juice, and brown them in a quick oven. 

22. Warmed up boiled fish, with Dutch 
Sauce. — Put the cold fish on the fire in plenty of 
cold water and salt, and let it come slowly to a boil ; 
meantime make a sauce for it as follows. 

23; Dutch Sauce. — Put one ounce of butter, 
and one ounce of flour in a sauce-pan over the fire, 
and stir constantly until it bubbles ; then add grad- 
ually one gill of boiling water, remove the sauce from 
the fire^ stir in the yolks of three eggs, one at a time, 
add one saltspoonful of dry mustard; add one table- 
spoonful of vinegar and three of oil, gradually, drop 
by drop, stirring constantly till smooth. When the 
fish is warmed take it up carefully without breaking 
and serve with the Dutch sauce in a boat. 



CHAPTER IV. 



RELISHES. 

The dishes known as relishes are usually eaten 
it dinner just after the soup or fish ; they are in re- 
ality the restorers of appetite , they are usually cold, 
ind are sent to the table on small oval dishes, or 
ornamental boats. 

24. Anchovies. (One for each person!) — The 
oest anchovies are small and plump, with white 
■scales, and dark red pickle ; they are prepared for 
Lhe table by soaking two hours in cold water, taking 
out the backbone, removing the scales and some of 
(he small bones, and serving them with oil or vine- 
gar in a suitable dish, or pickle shell. 

25. Sardines. {One for each person) — Sardines 
ire served by wiping them, and serving them on a 
small dish with quarters of lemons beside them. 

26. Pickled Herrings. (One for each person) 
—These are served in a boat with a few capers, and 
\ little chopped parsley sprinkled over them. 

27. Scalloped Oysters. (One shell for each 
Person.) — Blanch one quart of oysters by bring- 
ing just to a boil in their own liquor, then strain 
ihem, saving the liquor, and keeping it hot ; 
vash them in cold water and drain them ; mix 



3S 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



one ounce of butter and one ounce of flour to- 
gether in a sauce-pan over the fire; as soon as 
it is smooth gradually stir in one pint of the oyster 
liquor, which must be boiling; season the sauce with 
half a teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoon- 
ful each of white pepper and nutmeg ; put the oysters 
into it to heat, while you thoroughly wash eight or 
ten deep oystershells with a brush ; fill them with the 
oysters, dust them thickly with bread crumbs ; put 
a small bit of butter on each one, and brown them 
in a quick oven ; they should be sent to the table 
laid on a napkin neatly folded on a platter. 

28. Welsh Rare-bit. — Grate one pound of 
rich cheese, mix it over the fire with one gill of ale, 
working it smooth with a spoon ; season it with a 
saltspoonful of dry mustard; meantime make two 
large slices of toast, lay them on a hot dish, and as 
soon as the cheese is thoroughly melted, pour it over 
the toast and send it to the table at once. • 

29. Golden Buck. — Prepare the cheese and 
toast as in receipt No. 28; cut the toast in eight 
pieces ; while the cheese is melting poach eight eggs, 
by dropping them gently into plenty of boiling water 
containing a teaspoonful of salt, and half a gill of 
vinegar ; as soon as the whites are firm, take them 
carefully out on a skimmer, trim off the edges, and 
slip them again into warm water, while you divide 
the cheese on the pieces of toast ; then lay an egg on 
each piece, and serve at once. The success of 
the dish depends upon having the eggs, cheese, and 
toast ready at the same moment, putting them 



RELISHES. 



39 



together very quickly, and serving them before 
they cool. 

30. Mock Crab. — Break up half a pound of 
soft, rich cheese with a fork, mix with it a teaspoon- 
fell of dry mustard, a saltspoonful of salt, half a salt- 
spoonful of pepper, and a dessertspoonful of vinegar; 
serve it cold, with a plate of thin bread and butter, 
or crisp crackers. 

31. English bread and butter. — Cut an 
even slice off a large loaf of fresh homemade bread ; 
butter the cut end of the loaf thinly, then hold it 
against the side with the left hand and arm, and with 
a sharp, thin knife, cut an even slice not more than 
an eighth of an inch thick ; a little practice, and a 
steady grasp of bread and knife, will enable any one 
to produce regular whole slices ; fold each one double, 
with the butter inside ; and cut as many as you re- 
quire ; serve them on a clean napkin, and send them 
to the table with any other of the above relishes. 

32. Cheese Straws, — Sift six ounces of flour 
on the pastry board, make a hole or well in the cen- 
tre ; into this well put two tablespoonfuls of cream, 
three ounces of grated Parmesan, or any rich dry 
cheese, four ounces of butter, half a teaspoonful of 
salt, quarter of a teaspoonful of white pepper, and the 
same quantity of grated nutmeg, together with as much 
cayenne as you can take up en the point of a very 
small penknife blade ; mix all these ingredients with 
the tips of the fingers, to a firm paste, knead it well, 
roll it out an eighth of an inch thick ; and with a sharp 
knife, or pastry j agger, cut it in straws about eight 



40 THE COOKING MANUAL. 



inches long, and quarter of an inch wide ; lay the 
strips carefully on a buttered tin, and bake them light 
straw color in a moderate oven. These cheese 
straws make a delicious accompaniment to salad. 

33. Epicurean Butter. — Bone and skin four 
anchovies or sardines, and chop them fine ; chop a 
tablespoonful of chives, and the same quantity of 
tarragon leaves, four small green pickles, the yolks 
of two hard boiled eggs ; mix with these ingredients, 
a level teaspoonful of French mustard, a saltspoonful 
of salt, and two ounces of sweet butter ; pass them 
all through a fine sieve with the aid of a wooden 
spoon ; put it on the ice to cool, and then mould it 
in balls the size of a walnut, by rolling small lumps 
between two little wooden paddles ; serve it with 
crackers and cheese. 

These receipts are given because many persons 
call for them ; the author begs leave to accompany 
them with the assurance that a prolonged diet of any 
of them will produce a well-grounded dyspepsia in 
a very moderate length of time. 



CHAPTER V. 



SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES. 

The multitude of dishes known as entrees, repre- 
sent to a great extent the economical use of food for 
which the French are so celebrated ; they are based 
upon the principles of suitable combination. Usage 
has classed certain sorts of food together as fit ad- 
juncts; for instance, bon vivants instruct us that 
white sauces and light wines are the best accompani- 
ments for fish, poultry, and the white meats ; and 
that brown sauces, and rich, heavy wines, naturally 
follow with the dark meats and game. These gen- 
eral principles readily apply to the preparation of 
the numberless made dishes which are the glory of 
European cookery, and which transform the remains 
of an ordinary meat breakfast into a delicious 
luncheon, or an inviting side-dish for dinner. The 
fact that the secret of all good cookery is economy, 
must be our apology for treating this division of our 
subject at some length; and we beg our readers to 
test our receipts before accusing us of attempting to 
introduce obnoxious and difficult culinary methods 
into American kitchens. 

34. How Meat should be Broiled. — In 
broiling all meats, you must remember that the 



42 THE COOKING MANUAL. 



surface should not be cut or broken any more 
than is absolutely necessary ; that the meat should 
be exposed to a clear, quick fire, close enough to 
sear the surface without burning, in order to con- 
fine all its juices; if it is approached slowly to a 
poor fire, or seasoned before it is cooked, it will be 
comparatively dry and tasteless, as both of these pro- 
cesses are useful only to extract and waste those 
precious juices which contain nearly all the nourish- 
ing properties of the meat. 

35. Parisian Potatoes. — Pare and cut one 
quart of raw potatoes in balls the size of a walnut, 
reserving the trimmings to use for mashed potatoes ; 
put the balls over the fire in plenty of cold water and 
salt, and boil them until just tender enough to pierce 
easily with a fork; which will be in about fifteen 
minutes ; drain them, lay them on a towel a moment 
to dry them, and then brown them in enough smok- 
ing hot lard to immerse them entirely ; when they 
are brown take them up in a colander, and sprinkle 
them with a saltspoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful 
of chopped parsley. 

36. To broil a Beefsteak. — Rub the bars of 
the gridiron smooth, and then grease them slightly ; 
lay on a sirloin steak weighing about three pounds ; 
put the gridiron over a hot fire ; if the fire is not clear 
throw a handful of salt into it to clear it ; broil the 
steak, turning it frequently so that it cannot burn, 
until it is done to the required degree ; do not cut 
into it to ascertain this, but test it by pressing the 
tips of the fingers upon it ; if it springs up again af- 



SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES. 



43 



ter the pressure is removed it is done rare ; if it re- 
mains heavy and solid it is well done ; while it is 
broiling prepare a maitre oV hotel butter according to 
receipt No. 16; spread it over the steak after you 
have laid it on a. hot dish, and arrange the Parisian 
potatoes at the sides of the dish ; send it to the table 
at once. After the proper cooking of a steak comes 
the immediate eating thereof, if it is to be found 
perfect. 

37. Plain Rump Steak. — Broil three pounds 
of tender rump steak according to directions in re- 
ceipt No. 36, put it on a hot dish, season it with a 
level teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoon- 
ful of pepper, spread over it one ounce of butter, 
and lay two tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish on 
the side of the platter, and serve it hot, without 
delay. 

38. Portuguese Beef.— Cut in thin shavings 
two pounds of cold beef, and put it into a sauce-pan 
with half a pint of any brown gravy, and heat it 
gradually ; in another pan put one small onion chop- 
ped fine, the rind of one orange chopped, the juice, 
quarter of a saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, as much 
cayenne as can be taken up on the point of a very 
small penknife blade, and one gill of port wine ; boil 
these ingredients rapidly until the liquid is reduced 
one half, and then mix them with the beef; fry in 
hot fat some slices of bread, cut in the shape of 
hearts, about two inches long and one inch wide, 
pile the beef in a mound on a hot dish, lay the crou- 
tons of fried bread around it, and serve it hot. 



44 



THE COOKING MANUAL, 



39. Bubble and Squeak. — Cut about two 
pounds of cold meat in neat slices, put them into a 
pan with an ounce qf butter, and brown them ; at 
the same time chop one head of tender cabbage, 
without the stalks, put it into a sauce-pan with two 
ounces of butter, a saltspoonful of salt, and quarter 
of a saltspoonful of pepper, and stir it occasionally 
over the fire until it is quite tender; when both are 
done, lay the slices of beef in the centre of a hot 
dish, and arrange the cabbage around it ; serve it 
hot. 

40. Stewed Kidneys.— Cut one large beef 
kidney in thin slices about an inch long; fry two 
ounces of onion in one ounce of butter, until pale 
yellow ; add the kidney, fry or rather sauter it, for 
about five minutes, shaking the pan frequently to 
prevent burning ; then stir in one ounce and a half 
of flour, season with one saltspoonful of salt, a quar- 
ter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and the same of pow- 
dered sweet herbs made as directed on page 20, and 
one gill of boiling water ; cook ten minutes longer ; 
meantime make eight heart-shaped croutons of bread, 
as directed in receipt No. 38 ; add one gill of Ma- 
deira wine to the kidneys, pour them on a hot dish, 
sprinkle them with a teaspoonful of chopped pars- 
ley, arrange the croutons around the border of the 
dish, and serve hot at once. The success of this 
dish depends on serving it while the kidneys are 
tender ; too much cooking hardens them ; and they 
must not be allowed to stand after they are done, 01 
they deteriorate. 



SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES. 



45 



41. Haricot or Stew of Mutton. — Trim a 
neck of mutton, weighing about two pounds, of all 
superfluous fat, cut it into cutlets, put them in a deep 
tsauce-pan with one ounce of butter, and fry them 
brown ; pour off all fat, add two ounces of flour, stir 
till brown, moisten with one quart and a half of 
stock, or water, and stir occasionally until the 
haricot boils ; meantime cut one quart of carrots 
and turnips, half and half, in small balls, and add 
them, with one dozen button onions, a bouquet of 
sweet herbs, half a saltspoonful of pepper, and a 
teaspoonful of salt ; simmer for one hour ; take up 
the cutlets with a fork, skim out the vegetables, and 
remove the bouquet ; lay the cutlets in a wreath on a 
hot dish, place the vegetables in the centre, and strain 
the gravy over all. Green peas, new turnips, or new 
potatoes, may replace the first named vegetables. 
The dish should always be' sent to the table hot. 

42. Epigramme of Lamb, with Piquant e 
Sauce. — Boil a breast of young mutton, weighing 
from two to three pounds, until tender, either in the 
stock-pot, or in hot water seasoned with salt, two 
cloves stuck in a small onion, and a bouquet of sweet 
herbs made as directed in the first chapter ; when it 
is tender enough to permit the bones to be drawn 
out easily, take it up, lay it on a pan, put another 
containing weights, on it, and press it until it is cold ; 
then cut it in eight triangular pieces, about the size 
of a small cutlet ; season them with salt and pepper ; 
roll them first in sifted cracker dust, then in an egg 
beaten with a tablespoonful of cold water, and again 



46 



THE COOKING MANUAL, 



in cracker dust ; fry them light brown in enough 
smoking hot fat to cover them. 

43. Piquante Sauce. — While the lamb is fry- 
ing, chop one tablespoonful of capers, two of shallot, 
or small, finely flavored onion, and the same quantity 
of green gherkins ; place them over the fire in a 
sauce-pan with one gill of vinegar, two bay leaves, 
quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and the same of 
powdered thyme, and boil quickly until the vinegar 
is reduced to one third of its original quantity ; then 
add half a pint of rich brown gravy of any kind, or 
of Spanish sauce, which may always be kept on 
hand ; boil the sauce gently for five minutes, take 
out the bay-leaves, and pour a little of the sauce on 
the bottom of a hot platter ; when the pieces of 
breast are brown, take them up with a skimmer, and 
lay them on soft paper, or on a clean napkin for a 
moment, to free them from grease, and arrange them 
in a wreath on the platter containing the sauce ; 
serve them at once, with the rest of the sauce in a 
gravy boat. 

44. Spanish Sauce. — Fry one ounce of ham or 
bacon, cut in half-inch dice, with one ounce of fat ; 
add to it, as soon as brown, two "ounces of carrot 
sliced, two ounces of onion sliced ; stir in two ounces 
of dry flour, and brown well ; then add one quart of 
stock ; or if none is on hand, one quart of water, 
and half a pound of lean meat chopped fine ; season 
with a teaspoonful of salt, quarter of a saltspoonful 
of pepper, and a bouquet of sweet herbs, made as 
directed in the first chapter ; simmer geutly for an 



SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES. 



47 



hour, skimming as often as any scum rises ; then 
strain the sauce, add one gill of wine to it, and use 
it to dress any dark meat, game, or baked fish. This 
sauce will keep a week or longer, in a cool place. 

45. Kromeskys, with Spanish Sauce.— 
Cut one pound of cold roast lamb, or mutton, in 
half inch dice ; chop one ounce of onion, and fry it 
pale yellow in one ounce of butter ; add one ounce of 
flour, and stir until smooth ; add half a pint of Span- 
ish sauce, or water, if no sauce is at hand, two table- 
spoonfuls of chopped parsley, one level teaspoonful 
of salt, one level saltspoonful of white pepper, half a 
saltspoonful of powdered herbs, as much cayenne as 
can be taken up on the point of a very small penknife 
blade, and the chopped meat ; two ounces of mush- 
rooms, slightly warmed with quarter of an ounce of 
butter, and a teaspoonful of lemon juice, improve the 
flavor of the kromeskys exceedingly ; stir until scald- 
ing hot, add the yolk of one raw egg, cook for two 
minutes, stirring frequently ; and turn out to cool on 
a flat 'dish, slightly oiled, or buttered, to prevent 
sticking, spreading the minced meat about an inch 
thick ; set away to cool while the batter is being 
made. 

46. Plain Frying Batter. — Mix quarter of a 
pound of flour with the yolks of two raw eggs, a level 
saltspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of pepper, 
quarter of a saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, one table- 
spoonful of salad oil, (which is used to make the bat- 
ter crisp,) and one cup of water, more or less, as the 
flour will take it up ; the batter should be stiff enough 



48 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



to hold the drops from the spoon in shape when they 
are let fall upon it ; now beat the whites of the two 
eggs to a stiff froth, beginning slowly, and increasing 
the speed until you are beating as fast as you can ; the 
froth will surely come ; then stir it lightly into the bat- 
ter ; heat the dish containing the meat a moment, to 
loosen it, and turn it out on the table, just dusced with 
powdered crackers ; cut it in strips an inch wide and 
two inches long, roll them lightly under the palm of 
the hand, in the shape of corks, dip them in the batter, 
and fry them golden brown in smoking hot fat. Serve 
them on a neatly folded napkin. They make a de- 
licious dish, really worth all the care taken in pre- 
paring them. 

47. Sheep's Tongues with Spinach. — Boil 

eight sheep's tongues in the stock pot, or in hot water 
with a bouquet of sweet herbs, and a gill of vinegar, 
for about an hour, or until they are quite tender ; then 
remove them from the stock, lay them on their sides 
on a flat dish, place over them another dish with 
weights on it, and allow them to cool: trim them 
neatly, put them into a sauce-pan with enough Spanish 
sauce, or brown gravy to cover them, and heat them 
gradually. 

48. To boil Spinach. — Wash and trim one quart 
of green spinach, put it into a sauce-pan holding at 
least three quarts of boiling water, and three table- 
spoonfuls of salt, and boil it rapidly, with the cover off, 
until it is tender enough to pierce easily with the 
finger nail, which will be in from three to seven min- 
utes, according to the age of the spinach ; then drain 



SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES. 



49 



it in a colander, wash it in cold water, thoroughly 
drain it again, and chop it very fine, or pass it through 
a sieve with a wooden spoon \ put it into a sauce-pan 
with enough Spanish sauce or brown gravy to moisten 
it, season it with a saltspoonful of salt, and half that 
quantity of white pepper, and heat it until it steams ; 
arrange the tongues in a wreath on a hot platter, put 
the spinach in the centre, and pour the gravy in which 
the tongues were heated, over them. Serve hot at 
once. 

49. Broiled Sheep's Kidneys. — Split eight 
kidneys lengthwise, skin them, lay them for half an 
hour in a dish containing a tablespoonful of salad oil, 
the same of some spiced vinegar, or table sauce, and 
a saltspoonful of salt and pepper mixed equally ; turn 
them frequently ; then roll them in cracker dust, lay 
them on a greased gridiron, and broil them, the inside 
first ; when done brown, place them on a hot dish, 
with a small piece of maitre & hotel butter in each, 
made according to receipt No. 16, and send them hot 
to the table. 

50. Liver Rolls. — Cut two sheep's livers in slices 
half an inch thick ; season them with salt and pepper ; 
spread over each a layer of sausage meat as thick as 
the liver, season that, roll each slice up, and tie it in 
place with a string \ on the bottom of a baking pan 
put one ounce of carrot, and one ounce of onion sliced, 
two bay leaves, one sprig of thyme, three of parsley, 
and an ounce of salt pork sliced ; lay the liver on these, 
put over each roll a tablespoonful of brown gravy, or 
Spanish sauce, and bake them in a moderate oven 



THE COOKING MANUAL, 



about forty minutes, or until they are thoroughly 
cooked ; lay them on a hot platter, add a gill of stock 
or water to the pan they were baked in, stir the vege- 
tables about in it, and strain it over the liver. Serve 
at once. 

51. Fried Brains with Tomato Sauce. — 

Lay four pieces of calf s brains in cold water and salt 
for one hour, to draw out the blood ; meantime begin 
a tomato sauce as directed below ; carefully remove 
the outer skin without breaking the brains ; put them 
over the fire in enough cold water to cover them, with 
half a gill of vinegar, two bay leaves, a sprig of parsley, 
and an onion stuck with three cloves ; bring them tc 
a boil, and simmer slowly for ten minutes ; take them 
up carefully, and lay them in cold water and salt to 
cool. When cool, cut each one in two pieces, roll 
them first in cracker dust, then in one raw egg beaten 
with a tablespoonful of cold water, then again in cracker 
dust, and fry them in plenty of smoking hot fat ; as 
soon as they are golden brown take them up on a 
skimmer, and lay them on a soft paper or napkin to 
absorb all fat, and then arrange on a platter containing 
half a pint of tomato sauce. 

52. Tomato Sauce. — Put into a thick sauce- 
pan half a can, or one pint of tomatoes, one ounce of 
carrot, and the same quantity of onion sliced, one 
ounce of salt pork cut in small bits, a bouquet of 
sweet herbs, made as directed in Chapter first, four 
cloves, one clove of garlic, if it is liked, one teaspoon- 
ful of salt, quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and a 
gill of stock, gravy, or water ; simmer slowly one 



SIDE DISHES, OR ENTRIES. 



5* 



hour, and pass through a sieve with a wooden spoon. 
This is an excellent sauce for any breaded side dish. 

53. Calf's Liver larded. — The operation of 
larding is done by passing strips of larding pork, 
which is firm, white, fat pork, cut two inches long, and 
quarter of an inch square, in rows along the surface 
of a liver, placing the strips of pork in the split end 
*of a larding needle, and with it taking a stitch about 
a quarter of an inch deep and one inch long in the 
surface of the liver, and leaving the ends of the pork 
projecting equally ; the rows must be inserted regu- 
larly, the ends of the second coming between the ends 
of the first, and so on, until the surface is covered ; 
the liver is then laid in a dripping pan on one ounce 
of carrot, one ounce of onions, and one ounce of salt 
pork sliced, half a teaspoonful of salt, quarter of a 
saltspoonful of pepper, three sprigs of parsley, one 
of thyme, three bay leaves, and six cloves ; a gill of 
Spanish sauce or brown gravy is poured over it, and 
it is cooked in a moderate oven about an hour, until 
it is thoroughly done. The liver should be laid on a 
hot platter, while half a pint of Spanish sauce or gravy 
is stirred among the vegetables it was cooked with, 
and then strained over it. If served hot it is a most 
delicious and economical dish, being nearly as satis- 
factory to appetite as a heavy joint of roast meat. 

54. Blanquette of Veal. — Cut three pounds 
of the breast of veal in pieces two inches square, 
put them in enough cold water to cover them, with 
©ne saltspoonful of white pepper, one teaspoon- 
ful of salt, a bouquet of sweet herbs, made as 



5* 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



directed in Chapter first, and an onion stuck with 
three cloves ; bring slowly to a boil, skim carefully 
until no more scum rises, and cook gently for thirty 
or forty minutes until the veal is tender ; then drain 
it, returning the broth to the fire, and washing the 
meat in cold water ; meantime make a white sauce by 
stirring together over the fire one ounce of butter and 
one ounce of flour, until they are smooth, then adding* 
a pint and a half of the broth gradually, season with 
a little more salt and pepper if they are required, and 
with quarter of a saltspoonful of grated nutmeg ; when 
the sauce has boiled up well, stir into it with an 
egg-whip the yolks of two raw eggs, put in the meat, 
and cook for five minutes, stirring occasionally ; a 
few mushrooms are a great improvement to the 
blanquette ; or it may be served with two tablespoon- 
fuls of chopped parsley sprinkled over it after it is put 
on a hot platter. 

55. Stuffed breast of Veal. — Have the 
butcher make what is called a pocket in a three pound 
breast of veal, by cutting the flesh of the upper side 
free from the breast bones, taking care to leave three 
outer sides of the meat whole, so as to hold the stuff- 
ing j prepare a bed of vegetables, kerbs, and pork, 
as directed for liver, in receipt No. 53 ; stuff the 
breast, sew it up, lay it on the vegetables, put four 
ounces of salt pork cut in thin slices on the top, sea- 
son it with a teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a salt- 
spoonful of pepper, and bake it in a moderate oven 
about one hour, till thoroughly done ; serve it with a 



SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES. 



53 



brown gravy made the same as the liver gravy in 
receipt No. 53. 

56. Stuffing for Veal. — Steep four ounces of 
bread in tepid water ; chop one ounce of onion, and 
fry it yellow in one ounce of butter ; wring the bread 
dry in a towel and add it to the butter and onion ; 
season with one saltspoonful of salt, quarter of a salt- 
spoonful each of pepper and powdered thyme, or mixed 
spices, and stir till scalding hot, then remove from 
the fire, stir in the yolk of one raw egg, and stuff the 
breast of veal with it. This is a very good stuffing 
for poultry, or lamb. 

57. Broiled Pork Cutlets. — Make a Robert 
sauce, according to directions given below. Broil 
two pounds of cutlets from the neck of pork, being 
careful not to burn them, and dish them in a wreath 
on a hot platter with Robert sauce poured on the 
dish. , 

58. Robert Sauce. — Chop two ounces of onion, 
fry pale yellow with one ounce of butter, add two ta- 
blespoonfuls of spiced vinegar, and reduce one half 
Dy quick boiling ; add half a pint of Spanish sauce, 
or brown gravy, and boil slowly for fifteen minutes ; 
then season with a saltspoonful of salt, quarter of a 
saltspoonful of pepper, and two teaspoonfuls of French 
mustard, and serve. 

59. Pork Chops with Curry. — First boil a 
quarter of a pound of rice according to receipt No. 
60. Fry tw r o pounds of pork chops, cut from the loin, 
brown in a very little butter, pour off all the grease, 
add to them half a pint of Spanish sauce, and a table- 



54 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



spoonful of curry powder mixed smooth with two 
tablespoonfuls of cold water ; cover the sauce-pan, and 
simmer the chops for fifteen minutes ; then dish them 
in a wreath on a hot platter, pour the sauce on the 
bottom of the dish, and fill the centre with rice. 

60. Boiled Rice. — Wash a quarter of a pound 
of rice in plenty of cold water, put it into a quart of 
boiling water with a tablespoonful of salt, and boil it 
fast for twenty minutes ; shake it out into a colander, 
drain it, and shake it from the colander into the cen- 
tre of the dish of chops ; do not stir it with a spoon. 

61. Broiled Pigs' Feet. — Boil four well 
cleaned pickled pigs' feet in stock or boiling water 
with sweet herbs, until they are tender enough to 
permit the bones to come out readily ; split them in 
halves, take out all the large bones ; trim and shape 
them neatly, and cool them ; when cold season them 
with pepper and salt, dip them first in melted butter 
and then in cracker dust, and broil them over a clear, 
moderate fire, turning them frequently ; serve with a 
little melted butter, lemon juice, and chopped parsley 
over them. 

62. English Pork Pie. — Make a plain pie- 
crust by mixing together with the hand, half a pound 
of flour and quarter of a pound of butter, with enough 
cold water to make a stiff paste ; roll out about six 
times on a well floured pastry board, folding the paste 
evenly each time ; line the side of an earthen pie dish 
nearly to the bottom ; in the bottom put a thin layer 
of bacon, about four ounces sliced ; pare and slice 
half a quart of potatoes ; chop two ounces of onion ; 



SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES. 



55 



cut two pounds of fresh lean pork in two-inch pieces ; 
lay all these in the dish in layers, season with half a 
saltspoonful of pepper and the same quantity of pow- 
dered sage ; fill the dish with any good cold gravy, 
cover with crust, wetting the edges to make them fit 
tight ; ornament the surface according to your fancy, 
vith leaves and fancy shapes cut out of the pastry ; 
brush over with a raw egg beaten with a tablespoonful 
of water ; bake in a moderate oven fifteen minutes ; 
cover the top with paper, and bake one hour longer ; 
serve hot, or cold, as desired. 

63. Fried Chicken, Spanish Style. — Cut up 
a four pound chicken as for a fricassee, sprinkle the 
pieces with salt, and Spanish red pepper • put four 
ounces of lard in a frying pan on the fire, and when 
smoking hot, put in the legs, back, thighs, and wings ; 
when they are half done, add the pieces of breast, two 
ounces of chopped onion, one clove of garlic chopped, 
a bouquet of sweet herbs, made as directed in Chapter 
first, and fry seven minutes ; add half a pound of raw 
ham cut in half inch dice, and fry till the chicken is 
tender ; take it out and keep it hot, while you fry four 
large tomatoes cut in dice, and seasoned with salt and' 
pepper to taste ; then add the chicken, make it quite 
hot, and serve all together on a platter, like a fricassee. 

64. Chicken Fricassee. — Cut a four pound 
tender chicken in joints, put it over the fire in enough 
cold water to cover it, with one dessertspoonful of salt, 
half a saltspoonful of pepper, a bouquet of sweet herbs, 
made as directed in Chapter first, two ounces of car- 
rot, pared and left whole, and one dozen button onions 



56 THE COOKING MANUAL. 



peeled ; skim frequently as often as any scum rises, 
simmer slowly until the chicken is tender, about an 
hour, and then take it up to keep hot while the sauce 
is made ; strain out the vegetables, and set the broth 
to boil \ mix one ounce of butter and one ounce of 
flour together over the fire until they become a smooth 
paste ; then gradually add a pint and a half of the 
broth, stirring the sauce with an egg-whip until it is 
quite smooth, season it to taste with salt and pepper, 
and dish it on a hot platter ; half a can of mushrooms 
greatly improve the flavor of the fricassee. 

65. Grilled Fowl. — Cut the legs and second 
joints from two cold roast fowls ; score them closely, 
season them with pepper and salt, and lay them by, 
ready to broil. Mince the rest of the meat fine. 
Make a white sauce by mixing together over the fire 
two ounces of butter and two of flour until they form 
a smooth paste ; gradually add enough boiling milk 
•o make a good thick sauce, season with half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, quarter of a saltspoonful of white 
pepper, and the same quantity of grated nutmeg ; add 
the minced fowl, and heat ; now broil the legs and 

Uhighs, and after dishing the mince on a hot platter, 
lay them on it, and serve hot. 

66. Minced Chicken with Macaroni. — Put 
Tour ounces of macaroni to blanch as directed in receipt 
No. 67. Cut two pounds of cold roast fowl in small 
slices, or scallops ; and heat them in a white sauce 
as directed in receipt No, 65 ■ dish them in a bordei 
of macaroni, and serve hot 

67. Macaroni with Cheese. — Blanch 



SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES. 57 



ounces of macaroni by putting it to boil in two quarts 
of boiling water and a tablespoonful of salt ; boil it 
until it is tender enough to pierce with the finger nail, 
drain it in a colander, wash it well in cold water, and let 
it remain in water while you prepare a white sauce of 
one ounce of butter, one of flour, and boiling milk, as 
directed in receipt No. 65 : — put the macaroni into it 
with two ounces of grated cheese, Parmesan is the 
best ; heat it thoroughly ; dish it in a border around 
the minced fowl, which should be piled in the middle 
of the dish. 

68. Broiled Pigeons. — Carefully pluck and 
draw eight pigeons, split them down the middle of the 
back, flatten them by pounding them with the blade 
of a heavy knife, broil them on a greased gridiron, the 
inside first ; lay each one on a slice of buttered toast, 
and dress them with a little maitre ifhotel butter, 
made according to receipt No. 16. 

69. Salmi of Duck. — Cut two cold roast wild 
ducks in joints ; put them into a sauce-pan with 
enough Spanish sauce to cover them, and add two 
dozen olives with the stones removed ; season to taste 
with salt and pepper, being guided in this by the 
seasoning of the Spanish sauce ; heat thoroughly ; 
meantime cut a dozen heart shaped croutons, or slices 
of bread about two inches long and one wide, and fry 
them brown in plenty of hot fat ; when the salmi is 
hot, pour it on a hot dish, and arrange the croutons 
around the border ; serve hot. 

70. Civet of Hare. — Skin a pair of leverets, or 
young hares, carefullv wipe them outside with a damp 

3* 



S3 



THE COOKING MANUAL, 



cloth ; remove the entrails, and wash the interior with 
a cup of vinegar, which must be saved ; cut them into 
joints as you would divide a chicken for fricassee ; cut 
the back and loins in pieces about two inches square ; 
peel two dozen button onions, and fry them light 
brown in two ounces of butter, with half a pound of 
lean ham cut in half inch dice ; add the hare, and 
brown well ; stir in two ounces of dry flour, add three 
gills of broth, and one gill of the vinegar used to wash 
the hare, or two gills of claret, season with one tea- 
spoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of ground cloves, and 
half a saltspoonful of pepper ; simmer gently about one 
hour, until the hare is tender, and serve on a hot 
platter like chicken fricassee. 

71. Jugged Hare. — Prepare twc nares as for a 
civet, in receipt No. 70, lU the cup of vinegar and 
half a pint of Spanish sauce, (or in their place one pint 
of claret,) put the yellow rind of one lemon, a bouquet 
of sweet herbs, prepared as in Chapter first, eight 
cloves, two blades of mace, two inches of stick cinna- 
mon, eight allspice, one ounce of onion whole, one 
ounce of carrot whole ; boil all these together half an 
hour when you are preparing the hare, as in receipt 
No. 70 ; lay the browned pieces of hare in an earthen 
jar ; season them a little with a teaspoonful of salt, 
and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper ; strain the 
gravy made as above into the jar ; put on the cover ; 
fasten it in place with a paste made of flour and water, 
and oiled on the top to prevent cracking. Bake the 
hare in a moderate oven three hours. When you are 
nearly ready to dish it, cut a slice of bread two inches 



SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES. 



thick, the entire side of a large loaf, trim it to a 
perfect oval, fry it light brown in hot fat, put it on a 
platter, arrange the hare on it, and pour the gravy 
over ; serve hot. 

72. Stuffed Eggs. — Boil eight eggs for ten min- 
utes, until quite hard, lay them in cold water unti 1 
they are quite cold ; make a white sauce, as directed 
in receipt No. 65 ; soak two ounces of stale bread in 
cold water for five minutes, and wring it dry in a 
towel ; put one ounce of grated cheese, Parmesan is 
the best, in a sauce-pan with one saltspoonful of salt, 
half that quantity of white pepper, as much cayenne 
as can be taken up on the point of a very small pen- 
knife blade, a teaspoonful of lemon juice, two ounces 
of butter, and a gill of the white sauce ; cut the eggs 
carefully in halves lengthwise after removing the shells, 
rub the yolks through a sieve with a silver spoon, and 
add them with the bread to the sauce, as prepared 
above ; stir these ingredients over the fire until they 
cleave from the sides of the sauce-pan, when they will 
be scalding hot ; on a hot platter put a layer of the 
white sauce as a foundation for the e^gs ; fill the 
whites with the forcemeat, rounding it up to look like 
the entire yolk of an egg, set them on a dish in a 
pyramid, and heat them in a moderate oven ; send 
whatever white sauce you have left to the table in a 
boat, with the dish of eggs. 

When, after preparing the eggs for the oven, they 
are sprinkled with grated cheese, and cracker dust, and 
then browned, they are called gratinated eggs, or stuffed 
eggs, au gratin, and are served without any sauce. 



6o 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



73. How to make Omelettes. — There is no 
great difficulty in making omelettes, and as they may 
be expeditiously prepared and served they are a con 
venient resource when an extra dish is required at 
short notice ; care should be taken to beat the eggs 
only until they are light, to put the omelette into a 
well heated and buttered pan, and never to turn it in 
the pan, as this flattens and toughens it; if the pan be 
large, and only three or four eggs be used in making 
the omelette, the pan should be tipped and held by 
the handle so that the eggs will cook in a small space 
upon one side of it ; instead of spreading ail over it, 
and becoming too dry in the process of cooking. 

There are three secrets in the making of a good 
omelette, namely, the separate beating of the eggs, the 
knack of stirring it upon the fire, and the method of 
transferring it from the fire to the table. If you will 
carefully follow the directions here given, you can pro- 
duce a dish dainty enough to satisfy the most fastidi- 
ous eater. 

74. Plain Omelette. — If you have to serve 
eight persons, make three omelettes as follows: 

Put one half an ounce (about a tablespoonful) of 
butter into a clean, smooth frying-pan, and set it upon 
the back of the stove to melt ; stir the yolks of three 
eggs with a saltspoonful of salt for one minute ; beat 
the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth with an egg- 
whip, beginning slowly, and gradually increasing the 
speed until the froth will not leave the dish if it be 
turned bottom up ; this will take from three to 
five minutes, according to the freshness of the 



I 



SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES. 



61 



K)w pour the yolks into the froth, and mix them gently 
with a silver spoon, turning the bowl of the spoon 
over and over, but do not stir in a circle, or rapidly ; 
put the frying-pan containing the melted butter over 
the fire, pour in the omelette, and stir it with a large 
two-pronged fork (a carving fork will do), carefully 
raising the edges with the fork as fast as they cook, 
and turning them toward the centre, until the omelette 
lies in the middle of the pan in a light mass, cooked 
soft or hard to suit the taste ; when done to the de- 
sired degree, turn it out upon a hot dish without touch- 
ing it with either fork or spoon, and send it to the table 
immediately. Another excellent method is to beat 
three eggs, without separating the whites and yolks, 
with one tablespoonful of milk, and a little salt and 
pepper, and put them into a frying-pan containing two 
ounces of butter browned ; let the omelette stand for 
a moment, and then turn the edges up gently with a 
fork, and shake the pan to prevent it burning or stick- 
ing at the bottom ; five minutes will fry it a delicate 
brown, and it should then be doubled and sent to the 
table at once on a hot dish. Three eggs will make an 
omelette large enough for two persons, if any other 
dish is to be served with it. There are several varie- 
ties of omelettes, each named after the ingredient 
prominent in the composition. We subjoin some ex- 
cellent receipts, which may be based upon the first- 
mentioned method of preparation and cooking. 

75. Omelette with Herbs. — Stir into the 
yolks of three eggs a saltspoonful of salt, half a tea- 
spoonful of chopped parsley, one tablespoonful of 



62 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



chopped mushrooms, and one tablespoonful of shallot 
or white onion ; beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff 
froth, add them to the yolks, and cook as in the first 
receipt. 

76. Omelette with Ham, Tongue, or 
Cheese. — Use chopped or grated ham, or tongue 
or cheese, in the proportion of one tablespoonful to 
one egg ; proceed to mix and cook in the same way 
as for omelette with herbs. 

77. Omelette with Oysters. — Blanch one 
dozen small Blue Point oysters, by bringing them just 
to a boil in their own liquor, seasoned with a dust of 
cayenne, a saltspoonful of salt, and a grate of nut* 
meg ; mix an omelette as above, omitting the herbs, 
place it over the fire, and when it begins to cook at 
the edges, place the oysters, without any liquor, in its 
centre, and fold and serve it in the same manner as 
the omelette with herbs. 

78. Omelette with Mushrooms. — Choose a 
dozen small, even sized mushrooms ; if they are can- 
ned, simply warm them in the essence in which they 
are preserved, and if they are fresh, peel them by 
dipping them, held by the stem, into boiling water for 
one moment, and heat them over the fire with half an 
ounce of butter and half a saltspoonful of salt put over 
them ; prepare the omelette as above,, and as soon as 
the edges begin to cook, place the mushrooms in the 
centre, and fold and serve like the omelette with herbs. 

79. Spanish Omelette.— Peel two large ripe 
tomatoes, cut them in thin slices, put them into a fry- 
ing pan with an ounce of butter, a saltspoonful of salt, 



SIDE DISHES, OR ENTRIES. 



63 



and a dust of pepper, and toss them to prevent burn- 
ing, until they are just cooked through ; make an ome- 
lette as above, and as soon as its edges are cooked 
put in the tomatoes, and fold and serve the same as 
the omelette with herbs. 

80. Oriental Omelette. — Heat a thick earthen 
plate over a charcoal or wood fire, until it will melt 
butter enough to cover the bottom of it, dust on the 
butter a little pepper, and sprinkle on a little salt ; 
break into it as many eggs as will lay upon it without 
crowding, and brown them underneath ; then set them 
where the heat of the fire will strike their tops, and let 
them color a pale yellow; salt them a little, and serve 
them very hot upon the same dish upon which they 
were cooked. 

81. Omelette with Preserves. — Prepare an 
omelette as directed in receipt No. 77, substituting any 
kind of jelly or preserves for the oysters. 

82. How to Cook Macaroni. — This is one 
jf the most wholesome and economical of foods, and 
can be varied so as to give a succession of palatable 
dishes at a very small cost. The imported macaroni 
can be bought at Italian stores for about fifteen cents a 
pound ; and that quantity when boiled yields nearly 
three times its bulk, if it has been manufactured for any 
length of time. In cooking it is generally combined 
with meat gravy, tomato sauce, and cheese ; Gruyere 
and Parmesan cheese, which are the kinds most used 
by foreign cooks, can be readily obtained at any large 
grocery, the price of the former being about thirty-five 
cents per pound, and the latter varying from forty to 



6 4 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



eighty cenrs, according to the commercial spirit of the 
vendor ; the trade price quoted on grocers' trade lists 
being thirty-eight cents per pound, for prime quality. 
This cheese is of a greenish color, a little salt in taste 
and flavored with delicate herbs ; the nearest domestic 
variety is sage-cheese, which may be used when Par- 
mesan can not be obtained. If in heating Parmesan 
cheese it appears oily, it is from the lack of moisture, 
and this can be supplied by adding a few tablespoon- 
fuls of broth, and stirring it over the fire for a minute. 
When more macaroni has been boiled than is used, it 
can be kept perfectly good by laying it in fresh water, 
which must be changed everyday. There are several 
forms of Italian paste, but the composition is almost 
identical, all being made from the interior part of the 
finest wheat grown on the Mediterranean shores : the 
largest tubes, about the size of a lead pencil, are 
called macaroni; the second variety, as large as a 
common pipe-stem, is termed mazzini ; and the small- 
est is spaghetti, or threads ; vermicelli comes to market 
in the form of small coils or hanks of fine yellowish 
threads ; and Italian paste appears in small letters, 
and various fanciful shapes. Macaroni is generally 
known as a rather luxurious dish among the wealthy ; 
but it should become one of the chief foods of the 
people, for it contains more gluten, or the nutritious 
portion of wheat, than bread. 

83. Macaroni with Bechamel Sauce. — 
Heat three quarts of water, containing three tablespoon- 
fuls of salt, to the boiling point ; boil half a pound of 
macaroni in it until it is tender enough to pierce easily 



SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES. 



65 



with the finger nail ; then drain it in a colander, and 
wash it well in cold water ; while it is boiling make a 
Bechamel, or white sauce, as in receipt No. 84 : put 
just enough of it with the macaroni to moisten it, heat 
it thoroughly ; shake it up well with two forks to make 
the cheese fibrous, put it on a hot dish, sprinkle with 
half an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, and serve 
it hot. 

84. Bechamel Sauce, with Parmesan 
Cheese. — Stir together over the fire two ounces of 
butter, and two ounces of flour, until they are perfectly 
blended, boiling one pint of milk meantime ; when the 
butter and flour are smooth, pour the boiling milk into 
them, stir in two ounces of grated Parmesan gradually 
and melt it thoroughly, stirring constantly until the 
sauce is smooth ; if cream is used instead of milk, and 
the Parmesan cheese omitted, the sauce is called Cream 
Bechamel. 

85. Macaroni Milanaise style. — Have ready 
some tomato sauce, made according to receipt No. 52, 
or use some fresh tomatoes passed through a sieve 
with a wooden spoon, and highly seasoned ; and two 
ounces of grated Parmesan cheese ; put half a pound 
of imported Italian macaroni in three quarts of boiling 
water, with two tablespoonfuls of salt, one saltspoon- 
ful of pepper in coarse pieces, called mignonette pep- 
per, and a teaspoonful of butter ; boil rapidly for 
about twenty minutes, or until you can easily pierce 
it with the finger nail, then drain it in a colander, run 
plenty of cold water from the faucet through it, and lay 
it in a pan of cold water until you are ready to use it 



66 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



Put into a sauce-pan one gill of tomato sauce, one 
ounce of butter, and one gill of Spanish sauce, or any 
rich meat gravy free from fat, and stir until they are 
smoothly blended : put a half inch layer of macaront 
on the bottom of a dish, moisten it with four table- 
spoonfuls of the sauce, sprinkle over it half an ounce 
of the grated cheese; make three other layers like 
this, using all the macaroni, cheese, and sauce, and 
brown the macaroni in a hot oven for about five min- 
utes ; serve it hot. 

86. Macaroni with Tomato Sauce. — Boil 
half a pound of spaghetti or macaroni as directed in 
receipt No. 83, and lay it in cold water. Make a 
tomato sauce as follows, and dress the macaroni with 
it, using only enough to moisten it, and sprinkling the 
top with half an ounce of grated cheese ; serve it hot. 

87. Tomato Sauce. — Boil together, for one 
hour, half a can of tomatoes, or six large, fresh ones, 
one gill of broth of any kind, one sprig of thyme, one 
sprig of parsley, three whole cloves, three peppercorns, 
and half an ounce of onion sliced ; rub them through 
a sieve with a wooden spoon, and set the sauce to 
keep hot ; mix together over the fire one ounce of 
butter, and half an ounce of flour, and when smooth, 
incorporate with the tomato sauce. 

88. Timbale of Macaroni. {A sweet disk.) — 
Boil half a pound of macaroni of the largest size, in 
boiling water and salt for fifteen minutes ; drain it in 
a colander, wash it well, lay by one quarter of it, and 
put the rest into a sauce-pan with one ounce of butter, 
one pint of milk or cream, four ounces of sugar, one 



SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES 



67 



tcaspoonful of vanilla flavoring, and a saltspoonful of 
salt ; simmer it gently while you line a well buttered 
three pint plain mould with the best pieces you have 
reserved, coiling them regularly in the bottom and up 
the sides of the mould ; put what you do not use 
among that in the sauce-pan, and as soon as it is 
tender fill the mould with it, and set it in a hot oven 
for fifteen minutes ; then turn it out on a dish, dust it 
with powdered sugar, and serve it hot, with a pudding 
sauce. 

89. Vanilla Cream Sauce. — Put three ounces 
of powdered sugar into a sauce-pan with one ounce 
of corn starch, and one gill of cold water ; mix them 
smooth off the fire ; then put the sauce-pan on the 
fire and pour in half a pint of boiling milk, stirring 
smooth with an egg-whip for about ten minutes, when 
the sauce will be thoroughly cooked ; flavor it with 
one teaspoonful of vanilla, and serve with pudding 
at once. 



CHAPTER VI. 



LARGE ROASTS. 

Since roast or rather baked meats so often play 
the chief part in American dinners, a few directions 
will be useful in connection with their cooking. The 
object in cooking meat is to prepare it for easy masti 
cation and complete digestion ; and it should be ac 
complished with the least possible waste of the vale 
able juices of the meat. The roasting of meat before 
the fire is not often possible in ordinary kitchens, bui 
with a well managed oven the same result can be at 
tained. If meat is placed before a slow fire, or in a 
cool oven, the little heat that reaches it serves only to 
draw out its juices, and with them its nutritious ele 
ments. The albumen of its cut surfaces coagulates at 
the temperature of a bright, clear fire, or a hot oven, 
and thus seals up the juices so that only a part of 
them escape, and those are collected in the form of a 
rich brown, highly flavored crust, upon the surface of 
well roasted meat. A good temperature for baking 
meat is from 320 0 to 400 0 Fahr. If the meat is put 
into a very hot oven for a few moments to harden the 
outside, the heat can subsequently be moderated, and 
the cooking finished more slowly, so that the meat 
will be sufficiently well done, but not burned. Meat* 



LARGE ROASTS. 



69 



should be roasted about twenty minutes to a pound, 
to be moderately well done ; the fire should be clear, 
and steady, in order that an equal heat may reach the 
j >int and keep its interior steam at the proper degree 
of heat ; after the right length of time has elapsed, 
care being taken meantime that the meat does not 
burn, it may be tested by pressing it with the fingers ; 
if it is rare it will spring back when the pressure is 
removed ; if it is moderately well done the resistance 
to pressure will be very slight ; and if it is thoroughly 
cooked it will remain heavy under the fingers ; never 
test it by cutting into it with a knife, or puncturing 
it with a fork, for in this way you waste the rich juices. 
If you wish to froth roast meat, dredge a little flour 
over its surface, and brown it a few moments before 
serving it. If it is to be glazed, brush it with clear 
stock concentrated to a paste by rapid boiling, or dust 
a little powdered sugar over it, and in both cases 
return it to the oven to set the glaze. 

90. Roast Beef with Yorkshire Pudding. 
— Have three ribs of prime beef prepared by the 
butcher for roasting, all the bones being taken out if 
it is desirable to carve a clean slice off the top ; secure 
it in place with stout twine ; do not use skewers, as 
the unnecessary holes they make permit the meat- 
juices to escape ; lay it in the dripping pan on a bed 
of the following vegetables, cut in small pieces ; one 
small onion, half a carrot, half a turnip, three sprigs 
of parsley, one sprig of thyme, and three bay leaves ; 
do not put any water i?i the dripping pan ; its tempera- 
ture can not rise to a degree equal in heat to that of 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



the fat outside of the beef, and can not assist in its 
cooking, but serves only to lower the temperature of 
the meat, where it touches it, and consequently to 
soften the surface and extract the juices; do not sea- 
son it until the surface is partly carbonized by the heat, 
as salt applied to the cut fibres draws out their juices. 
If you use a roasting oven before the fire, the meat 
should be similarly prepared by tying in place, and it 
should be put on the spit carefully ; sufficient drippings 
for basting will flow from it, and it should be seasoned 
when half done ; when entirely done, which will be 
in fifteen minutes to each pound of meat, the joint- 
should be kept hot until served, but should be served 
as soon as possible to be good. When gravy is made, 
half a pint of hot water should be added to the drip- 
ping pan, after the vegetables have been removed, and 
the gravy should be boiled briskly for a few minutes, 
until it is thick enough, and seasoned to suit the palate 
of the family ; some persons thicken it with a tea- 
spoonful of flour, which should be mixed with two 
tablespoonfuls of cold water before it is stirred into 
the gravy. 

91. Yorkshire Pudding. — Put seven ounces 
of flour into a bowl with one teaspoonful of salt ; mix 
it smoothly with enough milk, say half a pint, to make 
a smooth, stiff batter ; then gradually add enough 
more milk to amount in all to one pint and a half, and 
three eggs well beaten ; mix it thoroughly with an 
egg-whip, pour it into a well buttered baking pan, 
bake it in the oven one hour and a half, if it is to be 
served with baked beef ; or if it is to accompany beef 



LARGE ROASTS. 



7* 



roasted before the fire, one hour in the oven, and then 
half an hour under the meat on the spit, to catch the 
gravy which flows from the joint. To serve it cut it 
into pieces two or three inches square before taking it 
from the pan, and send it to the table on a hot dish 
covered with a napkin, with the roast beef. 

92. Roast Loin of Veal. — Take out the chine, 
or back-bone, from a loin of veal weighing about six 
pounds, being careful to leave the piece of meat as 
whole as possible ; chop up the bones and put them in 
a dripping pan wifch two ounces of carrot, one ounce 
of turnip, and quarter of an ounce of parsley ; stuff 
the veal with a forcemeat made as in receipt No. 93, 
roll it up neatly, tie it firmly with stout cord, lay it 
on the vegetables in the pan, and roast it one hour 
and a half. When done take it from the pan, and 
keep it hot while you prepare the gravy by putting 
half a pint of hot water in the pan, boiling it up once, 
and straining it ; or if desirable thicken it with a tea- 
spoonful of flour smoothly dissolved in two table- 
spoonfuls of cold water and stirred with the gravy. 

93. Stuffing for Veal. — Cut two ounces of salt 
pork in quarter inch dice, and fry it brown in half an 
ounce of butter, with one ounce of chopped onion ; 
while these ingredients are frying, soak eight ounces 
of stale bread in cold water, and then wring it dry in 
a napkin ; add it to the onion when it is brown, with 
one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, half a salt- 
spoonful of powdered thyme, and the same quantity 
of dried and powdered celery, and white pepper, 
and one teaspoonful of salt ; mix all these over the 



7* 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



fire until they are scalding hot, and cleave from the 
pan ; then stir in one raw egg, and use it with the veal. 

94. Roast Lamb with Mint Sauce. — Choose 
a plump, fat fore-quarter of lamb, which is quite as 
finely flavored and less expensive than the hind- 
quarter ; secure it in shape with stout cord, lay it in a 
dripping pan with one sprig of parsley, three sprigs of 
mint, and one ounce of carrot sliced ; put it into a 
quick oven, and roast it fifteen minutes to each 
pound ; when half done season it with salt and pepper, 
and baste it occasionally with the drippings flowing 
from it. When done serve it with a gravy-boat full 
of mint sauce. 

95. Mint Sauce cold. — Melt four ounces of 
brown sugar in a sauce-boat with half a pint of vine- 
gar, add three tablespoonfuls of chopped mint, and 
serve cold with roast lamb. 

96. Hot Mint Sauce. — Put one pint of vinegar 
into a sauce-pan with four ounces of white sugar, and 
reduce by rapid boiling to half a pint, stirring to pre- 
sent burning ; add a gill of cold water, and boil for 
five minutes ; then add three tablespoonfuls of chop- 
ped mint, and serve with lamb. ' 

97. Roast Pork with Apple Sauce. — Neat- 
ly trim a loin of fresh pork weighing about six pounds; 
put it into a dripping pan on three bay leaves, quar- 
ter of an ounce of parsley, one ounce of onion, and 
the same quantity of carrot sliced, and roast it about 
wenty minutes to each pound ; when half done, season 
t with salt and pepper ; when brown, serve it with a 
>order of Parisian potatoes, prepared according to re« 



LARGE ROASTS. 



73 



ceipt No. 35, and send it to the table with a bowl of 
ipple sauce. 

98. Apple Sauce. — Pare and slice one quart of 
^ood tart apples ; put them into a sauce-pan with half 
a pint of cold water ; stir them often enough to pre- 
vent burning, and simmer them until tender, about 
twenty minutes will be long enough ; then rub them 
through a sieve with a wooden spoon, add a saltspoon- 
ful of powdered cloves, and four ounces of sugar, or 
less according to the taste ; serve in a bowl, with the 
roast pork. 

99. Roast Turkey with Cranberry- 
Sauce. —Choose a fat tender turkey weighing about 
s*x or seven pounds ; pluck it, carefully remove the 
pin feathers, singe the bird over the flame of an alco- 
hol l?mp, or a few drops of alcohol poured on a plate 
and lighte4 ; wipe it with a damp towel and see that 
it is property drawn by slitting the skin at the back of 
the neck, and taking out the crop without tearing the 
skin of the breast : loosen the heart, liver, and lungs, 
by introducing th^ fore-linger at the neck, and then 
draw them, with th^ entrails, from the vent. Un- 
less you have broken the gall, or the entrails, in draw- 
ing the bird do not wash it, for this greatly impairs the 
flavor, and partly destroys the nourishing qualities oi 
the flesh. Twist the tips of the wings back under the 
shoulders, stuff the bird with forcemeat made accord- 
ing to receipt No. 100 ; bend the legs as far up to- 
ward the breast as possible, secure the thigh bones in 
that position by a trussing cord or skewer ; then bring 
the legs down, and fasten them close to the venu 

4 



74 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



Pound the breast bone down, first laying a towel over 
it. Lay a thin slice of salt pork over the breast to 
baste it until sufficient drippings run from the bird ; 
baste it frequently, browning it on all sides by turning 
it about in the pan ; use a clean towel to turn it with, 
but do not run a fork into it or you will waste its juices : 
when it is half done season it with two teaspoonfuls of 
salt and one saltspoonful of powdered herbs, made 
according to directions in Chapter first ; when it has 
cooked about twenty minutes to each pound, dish it, 
and keep it hot while you make a gravy by adding 
half a pint of water to the drippings in the pan, first 
taking off a little of the superfluous fat, and thicken- 
ing it if desired with a teaspoonful of flour mixed 
with two tablespoonfuls of cold water ; serve the turkey 
hot with a gravy-boat full of gravy and a dish of cran- 
berry sauce made according to receipt No. 101. The 
same directions for drawing, trussing, and roasting will 
apply to other poultry and game. 

100. Forcemeat for Roast Poultry. — Steep 
eight ounces of stale bread in cold water for five 
minutes, and wring it dry in a clean towel ; meantime 
chop fine four ounces each of fresh veal and pork, or 
use instead, eight ounces of good sausage meat ; grate 
eight ounces of good rather dry cheese; fry one ounce 
of onion in one ounce of butter to alight yellow color; 
add the bread, meat, and cheese, season with a salt- 
spoonful of powdered herbs, made according to direc- 
tions in Chapter first, a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoon- 
[ul of pepper, and two whole eggs ; mix well and use. 

101. Cranberry Sauce. — Carefully pick and 



LARGE ROASTS. 



75 



wash one quart of cranberries ; put them over the fire 
in a sauce-pan with half a pint of cold water ; bring 
them to a boil, and boil them gently for fifteen min- 
utes, stirring them occasionally to prevent burning] 
'then add four ounces of white sugar, and boil them 
"slowly until they are soft enough to pass through a 
sieve with a wooden spoon ; the sauce is then ready 
to serve. 

102. Roast Chicken with Duchesse Pota- 
toes. — Prepare and roast a pair of chickens as directed 
in receipt No. 99 ; or for the stuffing named in that 
receipt substitute No. 93 ; meantime boil one quart of 
potatoes, for mashing, and make twelve heart-shaped 
croutons or pieces of bread fried in hot fat : lay the 
Duchesse potatoes around the chickens when it is 
dished, and the croutons in an outer circle, with the 
points outward. 

103. Duchesse Potatoes. — Mash one quart of 
hot boiled potatoes through a fine colander with the 
potato masher; mix with them one ounce of butter, 
one level teaspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of 
white pepper, quarter of a saltspoonful of grated nut- 
meg, and the yolks of two raw eggs , pour the potato 
out on a plate, and then form it with a knife into small 
cakes, two inches long and one inch wide ; lay them 
on a buttered tin, brush them over the top with an egg 
ieaten up with a teaspoonful of cold water, and color 
them golden brown in a moderate oven. 

104. Roast Duck with Watercresses. — 
Prepare and roast a pair of ducks as directed in receipt 
No. 99, and serve them with a border of a few water 



7 6 



THE COOKING MANUAL, 



cresses, and a salad bowl containing the rest of a 
quart, prepared as in receipt No. 105. 

105. Romaine Sauce for Watercresses. — 

Grate half an ounce of onion, and use two tablespoon- 
fuls of vinegar to wash it off the grater ; to these add a 
saltspoonful of sugar, a tablespoonful of lemon juice, 
three tablespoonfuls of olive oil, six capers chopped 
fine, as much cayenne as can betaken up on the point 
of a very small pen-knife blade, a level saltspoonful of 
salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper ; mix well, 
and use for dressing watercresses, or any other green 
salad. A few cold boiled pototoes sliced and mixed 
with this dressing, and a head of lettuce, makes a 
very nice potato salad. 

106. Roast Goose with Onion Sauce. — 
Prepare a goose as directed in receipt No. 99 ; stuff it 
with onion stuffing made according to receipt No. 
107; serve it with a gravy boat full of onion sauce 
made according to receipt No. 108. 

107. Sage and Onion Stuffing. — Pare six 
oances of onion, and bring them to a boil in three 
different waters ; soak eight ounces of stale bread in 
cold water, and wring it dry in a towel ; scald ten 
sage leaves ; when the onions are tender, which will 
be in about half an hour, chop them with the sage 
leaves, add them to the bread, with one ounce of but- 
ter, the yolks of two raw eggs, one level teaspoonful 
of salt, and half a saltspoonful of pepper ; mix and 
use. 

108. Onion Sauce. — Prepare six ounces of onions 
as in receipt No. 107 ; chop them fine, pass them 



LARGE ROASTS. 



77 



through a sieve with a wooden spoon, and put them 
into half a pint of boiling milk, with one ounce of but- 
ter, one saltspoonful of salt, and one quarter of a 
saltspoonful of pepper. 

109. Roast Wild Duck. — Prepare a pair of 
ducks as directed in receipt No. 99 ; do not stuff 
them, but tie over the breasts slices of pork or bacon ; 
roast fifteen minutes to the pound ; serve with gravy 
in a boat and quarters of lemon on the same dish. 

no. Roast Partridge. — Prepare a pair of par- 
tridges as in receipt No. 99, but do not stuff them ; 
tie over the breasts slices of pork or bacon, and roast 
about twenty-five minutes ; serve with bread sauce. 

in. Bread Sauce. — Peel and slice an onion 
weighing full an ounce, simmer it half an hour in one 
pint of milk, strain it, and to the milk add two ounces 
of stale bread, broken in small pieces, one ounce of 
butter, one saltspoonful of salt, and quarter of a salt- 
spoonful of nutmeg and pepper mixed ; strain, passing 
through a sieve with a spoon, and serve hot. 



CHAPTER VII. 



BOILED DISHES. 

Boiling is the most economical way of cooking, if 
properly done ; there are several important points to 
be considered in this connection. We have already 
said that the best method of cooking meat is that 
which preserves all its nourishing juices ; if in addition 
to this we can prepare it in such a way as to present 
a large available surface to the action of the digestive 
juices, we would seem to have reached culinary per- 
fection. Judicious boiling accomplishes this : and we 
cannot do better than to follow Liebig's plan to first 
plunge the meat into boiling water, and boil it five 
minutes to coagulate the albumen to a sufficient 
depth to form a crust upon the surface, and thus con- 
fine the juices, and then add enough cold water to 
reduce the temperature to 15 8° Fahr., if the meat is 
to be rare, or to 165 0 Fahr., if it is to be well done ; 
and to maintain this gentle heat until the meat is 
tender. There is comparatively little waste in boil- 
ing, from the fact that fat melts less quickly than in 
broiling or roasting, and the covering of the pot re- 
tards evaporation, while the water absorbed by the 
meat adds to its bulk to a certain extent without de- 
tracting from its quality. A strainer or plate should 



BOILED DISHES. 



79 



be placed in the bottom of the pot to prevent burn- 
ing ; the pot should be skimmed clear as soon as it 
boils, and the subsequent simmering should be gentle 
and steady ; there should always be sufficient water to 
cover the meat in order to keep it plump. Less body 
of heat is required to boil in copper or iron pots, than 
in those made of tin, especially if the latter have pol- 
ished surfaces which throw off the heat. The pot- 
liquor from boiled meat should always be strained 
into an earthen jar and left to cool ; the fat can then 
be taken off for kitchen use, and the liquor utilized as 
:he basis for some kind of soup. 

112. Leg of Mutton with Caper Sauce. — 
Put a leg of mutton, weighing about six pounds, on 
the fire in enough boiling hot water to cover it ; boil 
it for five minutes, skimming it as often as any scum 
rises, then pour in enough cold water to reduce the 
heat to about 160 0 Fahr., season with a tablespoonful 
of salt, and simmer the meat at that heat until it is 
tender, allowing about twenty minutes cooking to each 
pound of meat ; if turnips are to be served with it as 
a garnish, choose them of equal size, pare them 
smoothly, and boil them with the mutton ; if the vege- 
tables are cooked first take them up without break- 
ing, and set them back off the fire, in a little of the 
mutton stock, to keep hot. Just before dishing the 
neat, make a caper sauce, as directed in receipt No. 
113 ; serve the mutton on a hot dish, with the turnips 
laid around it, and send the sauce in a gravy-boat to 
the table with it. 

113. Caper Sauce. — Put one ounce of butter 



So 



THE COOKING MANUAL, 



and one ounce of flour in a sauce-pan over the mt f 
and stir until smoothly melted ; gradually pour in hall 
a pint of boiling water, season with one teaspoonful 
of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of white pepper 
and stir until the sauce coats the spoon when you lift 
if out ; take it from the fire, and stir in two ounces of 
butter, and two tablespoonfuls of small capers, and 
serve at once. Do not permit the sauce to boil after 
you have added the butter, as it may turn rancid. 

114. Boiled Ham with Madeira Sauce. — 
Choose a ham by running a thin bladed knife close to 
the bone, and if the odor which follows the cut is sweet 
the ham is good ; soak it in cold water for twenty-four 
hours, changing the water once ; scrape it well, and 
trim off any ragged parts ; put it in enough cold water 
to cover it, with an onion weighing about one ounce, 
stuck with six cloves, and a bouquet made according 
to directions in Chapter first, and boil it four hours. 
Take it from the fire and let it cool in the pot-liquor. 
Then take it up carefully, remove the skin, dust it 
with sifted bread or cracker crumbs, and brown it in 
the oven. Serve it either hot or cold ; if hot send it 
to the table with a gravy boat full of Madeira sauce. 

115. Madeira Sauce. — Put over the fire in a 
thick sauce-pan one pint of Spanish sauce made ac- 
cording to receipt No. 44, or the same quantity of any 
rich brown gravy, season with salt and pepper to taste ; 
the seasoning must depend on the flavor of the gravy \ 
when scalding hot add half a pint of Madeira wine, 
and stir till the sauce is thick enough to coat the 
spoon ; then strain through a fine sieve, and serve hoc. 



BCILED DISHES. 



Si 



116. Beef a la Mode Jardiniere.— Daube a 
seven pound piece of round of beef, by inserting, with 
the grain, pieces of larding pork, cut as long as the 
^meat is thick, and about half an inch square, setting 
the strips of pork about two inches apart ; this can be 
done either with a large larding needle, called a sonde, 
or by first making a hole with the carving-knife steel, 
and then thrusting the pork in with the fingers ; lay 
the beef in a deep bowl containing the marinade, or 
pickle, given in receipt No. 117, and let it stand from 
two to ten days in a cool place, turning it over every day. 
Then put it into a deep pot just large enough to hold 
it, together with the marinade, and turn it occasionally 
over the fire until it is nicely browned ; cover it with 
hot stock or water, and simmer it gently four hours. 
When it has been cooking three hours cut about four 
ounces each of carrots and turnips in the shape of 
olives ; pare two dozen button onions ; and cut one 
pint of string beans in pieces one inch long ; put all 
these vegetables on the fire in boiling water, in sep- 
arate vessels, each containing a teaspoonful of salt, 
and half a saltspoonful of sugar, and let them boil till 
tender ; then lay them in cold water to keep their 
color, until ready to use them. When the meat is 
tender, take it up, and keep it warm; strain the sauce 
in which it has cooked, and stir it over the fire until 
it is thick enough to coat the spoon ; drain the veg- 
etables, and let them scald up in the sauce, and pour 
all over the beef. 

117. Marinade — Cut in slices, four ounces each 
of carrot and onion, two ounces of turnip, and one 



82 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



ounce of leeks ; chop a quarter of an ounce each of 
parsley and celery, if in season ; slice one lemon } 
add to these one level tablespoonful of salt, one salt 
spoonful of pepper, six cloves, four allspice, one inch 
of stick cinnamon, two blades of mace, one gill of oil 
and one of vinegar, half a pint of red wine, and one 
pint of water. Mix all these ingredients thoroughly, 
and use the marinade for beef, game, or poultry, 
always keeping it in a cool place. 

118. Boiled Fowl with Oyster Sauce. — 
Prepare a pair of fowls in accordance with receipt No. 
99, but do not stuff them ; put them into boiling water 
enough to cover them, with a level tablespoonful of 
salt to each quart of water ; skim until clear, and boil 
slowly until tender, about fifteen minutes to a pound ; 
when nearly done, make an oyster sauce, as directed in 
receipt No. 119,, and serve it on the same dish with the 
fowls, sprinkling them with a teaspoonful of chopped 
parsley. 

119. Oyster Sauce. — Blanch one quart of oys- 
ters by bringing them to a boil in their own liquor ; 
drain them, saving the liquor; wash them in cold water, 
and set them away from the fire until you are ready 
to use them ; stir one ounce of butter and one ounce 
of flour together over the fire until they form a smooth 
paste, strain into them enough of the oyster liquor and 
that the chicken was boiled in to make a sauce as 
thick as melted butter ; season with a teaspoonful of 
salt, quarter of a saltspoonful of white pepper, and the 
same of grated nutmeg ; put in the oysters, and serve. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



SALADS AND SALAD SAUCES. 

" The very herbs of the field yield nourishment, 
and bread and water make a feast for a temperate 
man," says Plato ; and indeed the healthfullness of 
fresh vegetables is well enough known in our day ; we 
include under this term not only the edible roots, but 
the young shoots of succulent plants, rich in nitrates 
and mineral salts, which play an important part in the 
preparation of salads. Americans are beginning to 
realize the wealth of green food abounding in their 
gardens and fields, which they have too long abandoned 
to their beasts of burden. We are wise in letting the 
ox eat grass for us, but with the grass he too often 
consumes tender herbs which might find a place on 
our own tables, to the advantage of appetite and di- 
gestion. Dandelion, corn-salad, chicory, mint, sorrel, 
fennel, marshmallows, tarragon, chives, mustard, and 
cresses, and their numerous kind, grow wdld, or can be 
cultivated with but little trouble ; and should find their 
way to favor in every family, for with the oil and vine- 
gar employed in dressing them, they promote digestion, 
and purify the system : while the condiments used 
with them are of decided medicinal value. 

There is some degree of truth in the idea that a 



84 



THE COOKING MANUAL, 



salad-maker is born, not made, and yet with due care 
and delicate manipulation, almost any deft-handed and 
neat-minded individual may become an expert salad 
dresser. Most careful preparation of the green vege- 
tables is imperatively necessary to the production of a 
good salad ; they must be freshened in cool water, 
cleaned of all foreign matter, well drained upon a clean 
napkin ; and, above all, torn with the fingers, and not 
cut with a knife. Then the various ingredients should 
be very delicately and deliberately compounded, and 
withal by a quick and cunning hand, and the result will 
be perfection. Below we give the receipts for a class 
of salads best adapted for general use. 

In the preparation of all salads only good oil should 
be used, as none other will produce invariably satis- 
factory results. The very best salads are often 
the result of the inspiration of the moment, when 
the necessity arises for substituting some ingredi- 
ent near at hand for one not to be obtained, as in the 
case of the shad-roe salad mentioned below. The for- 
mula called for Russian caviare, but Russian caviare 
was not to be had, and a cold shad-roe was ; the con- 
sequence was its substitution and the alteration of one 
or two other ingredients, and the result, we do not 
hesitate to say, was the production of one of the most 
delicious salads ever invented. Let careful house- 
keepers not given to these " foreign dishes " remem - 
ber that they are not only appetizing but economical. 

1 20. Spring Salad. — Break one pint of fresh 
mustard tops, and one of cresses, tear one good-sized 
lettuce, and chop two green onions ; place all lightly 



SALADS AND SALAD SA UCES. 



85 



in a dish, and ornament it with celery and slices of 
boiled beet. Use it with a cream dressing. 

izi. Watercress Salad. — Serve one quart of 
watercresses with one chopped green onion, one tea- 
spoonful of ground horseradish, one tablespoonful of 
lemon juice, and two of oil, simply poured over. 

122. Mint Salad. — Wash and clean the tendei 
tops of one quart of spearmint, lay them in a bowl 
with one tablespoonful of chopped chives, and dress 
them with brown sugar and vinegar, or sweet sauce. 
This is an excellent accompaniment for roast lamb. 

123. Cauliflower Salad. — Place in a salad 
bowl one underdone cauliflower, broken in branches, 
six small silver onions, six radishes, ornament with 
the hearts of two white lettuces, and one dessert spoon- 
ful each of chopped olives and capers ; dress it with 
cream sauce, or plain oil and vinegar. 

124. Dandelion Salad. — This salad is a favorite 
European dish ; one pint of the plants are carefully 
washed and placed in a salad bowl with an equal 
quantity of watercresses, three green onions or leeks 
sliced, a teaspoonful of salt, and plenty of oil or cream 
dressing. This is one of the most healthful and re- 
freshing of all early salads. 

125. Asparagus Salad. —Cut the green tops 
of two bunches of cold asparagus one inch long, mix 
them with the leaves of one lettuce, a few sprigs of 
mint, and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, ornament 
with tufts of leaves, and serve with a Mayonnaise. 

126. Shad-roe Salad. — Boil two roes, separate 
the grains by washing them in vinegar, place them in 



86 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



a salad bowl, with one head of tender lettuce and one 
pint of ripe tomatoes cut thin ; dress them with two 
tablespoonfuls each of oil, lemon juice, and strained 
tomato pulp, seasoned with cayenne pepper. 

127. Green Pea Salad. — Place one pint of cold 
boiled peas in a bowl with one tablespoonful of pow- 
dered sugar ; pour over them two tablespoonfuls of oil 
and one of vinegar, and garnish with two cucumbers 
delicately sliced. This salad is excellent with a 
Mayonnaise. 

128. Orange Salad. — Divest four under-ripe 
oranges of all rind and pith, slice them into a dish, 
season with a little cayenne pepper, add the rind of one 
minced, the juice of one lemon and a tablespoonful of 
oil if desired ; decorate with tarragon tops. 

129. Spinach Salad. — Place one pint of lettuce 
leaves, and one pint of tender spinach tops in a bowl 
with a few fresh mint leaves, dress them with oil and 
vinegar plain, and decorate them with sliced hard 
boiled eggs. A ravigote sauce is excellent with this 
salad. 

130. Tomato Salad. — Slice one quart of ripe 
tomatoes, sprinkle with cayenne pepper, garnish with 
chervil or fennel, and dress with oil or lemon juice 
three tablespoonfuls of each. 

131. Nasturtium Salad. — Tear two white let- 
tuces into the salad bowl, sprinkle over them one 
tablespoonful of pickled nasturtiums, or capers, dress 
with simple oil and vinegar, and garnish with fresh 
nasturtium blossoms. 

In mixing salad dressings, first, carefully stir to 



SALADS AND SALAD SAUCES. 



8 7 



gether all the ingredients except the oil and vinegar, 
and add these gradually and alternately a few drops 
at a time. 

132. Cream Dressing. — Where oil is disliked 
in salads the following dressing will be found excellent. 
Rub the yolks of two hard boiled eggs very fine with 
• a spoon, incorporate with them a dessert spoonful of 
mixed mustard, then stir in a tablespoonful of melted 
butter, half a teacupful of thick cream, a saltspoonful 
of salt, and cayenne pepper enough to take up on the 
point of a very small penknife blade, and a few drops 
of anchovy or Worcestershire sauce ; add very care- 
fully sufficient vinegar to reduce the mixture to a 
smooth creamy consistency ; and pour it upon lettuce 
carefully prepared for the table. 

133. English Salad Sauce. — Break the yolk 
of one hard boiled egg with a silver fork, add to it r 
saltspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of dry mustard, a 
mashed mealy potato, two dessert spoonfuls each of 
cream and oil, and one tablespoonful of vinegar ; mix 
until smooth and firm. 

134. Remolade. — Beat a fresh raw egg, add to 
it a teaspoonful of mixed mustard, and three table- 
spoonfuls of oil ; when smooth add just enough vine- 
gar to change the color slightly. 

135. Sweet Sauce. — Mix well two tablespoon- 
fuls of oil, the raw yolk of one egg, a saltspoonful of 
salt, a half that quantity of pepper, one tablespoonful 
of vinegar, and a dessertspoonful of moist sugar. 

136. Piquante Salad Sauce. — Mix together 
the yolks of two hard boiled and two raw eggs ; add 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



one tablespoonful each of cream and oil ; and, when 
smooth, enough Chili or tarragon vinegar to season 
sharply, about two tablespoonfuls. 

137. Green Remolade. — One dessert spoonful 
each of chopped tarragon, chives, and sorrel, pounded 
in a mortar ; add a saltspoonful of salt, half that 
quantity of mignonette pepper, one tablespoonful of 
mixed mustard, a gill of oil, and the raw yolks of 
three eggs ; when pounded quite smooth, dilute it 
with a little vinegar, and strain it through a sieve. 

138. Oil Sauce. — Pound in a mortar one shal- 
lot or two button onions, the yolks of two hard boiled 
eggs, a saltspoonful of herbs, a tablespoonful of vine- 
gar, and enough oil to thicken it, about one gill. 

139. Ravigote Sauce. — Clean and chop a 
few salad herbs, put one teaspoonful of each into a 
small pan with a tablespoonful of meat jelly or thick 
stock, and a little pepper and salt ; stir till the jelly 
is hot, and then add one tablespoonful of vinegar, 
and two of good oil ; when thoroughly mixed set the 
sauce-pan into a cool place, or pour out the mixture 
on a dish until it is wanted for use. 

140. Egg Dressing. — Chop the yolks and 
whites of two hard boiled eggs separately, but not 
fine ; strew them upon any salad after having dressed 
it with two tablespoonfuls of cream, and one of white 
vinegar. 

141. Anchovy Salad Sauce. — Mix until 

smooth two raw eggs, one teaspoonful of the essence 
of anchovy, one tablespoonful of vinegar, and two oi 
oil. 



SALADS AND SALAD SA UCES. 



89 



142. Swiss Dressing. — Pound two ounces of 
old cheese in a mortar, add one tablespoonful of 
vinegar, a little salt and pepper, and dilute to the 
consistency of cream with oil. 

143. Spring Dressing. — Beat the yolks of two 
raw eggs, add a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoon- 
ful of dry mustard, chop one leek or two new onions, 
and mix them in, then add three tablespoonfuls of 
oil and one of vinegar and mix thoroughly ; tear up 
two heads of lettuce, putting thin slices of boiled 
beets upon it, and pour the dressing over all. 

144. Mayonnaise. — Place in the bottom of a 
salad bowl the yolk of one raw egg, a level teaspoon- 
ful of salt, the same quantity of dry mustard, a salt- 
spoonful of white pepper, as much cayenne as can 
be taken up on the point of a very small pen-knife 
blade, and the juice of half a lemon ; mix these in- 
gredients with a wooden salad spoon until they as- 
sume a creamy white appearance ; then add, drop by 
drop, three gills of salad oil, stirring the mayonnaise 
constantly ; if it thickens too rapidly, thin it with a 
little of the juice from the second half of the lemon, 
until all is used ; and towards the finish add gradu- 
ally four tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar. Keep 
it cool until wanted for use. 

145. Hot Salad SauGe. — This sauce when 
cold is an excellent and economical substitute for 
the more expensive mayonnaise. 

Part i. — Put one ounce each of butter and flour 
into a sauce-pan over the fire, and stir until it is 
melted, add gradually half a pint of boiling wate^ 



9° 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



season with a teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a 
saltspoonful of white pepper, stir till smooth, and set 
a little away from the fire, while you make the fol- 
lowing sauce. 

Part 2. Put the yolk of one raw egg in a salad 
bowl, add a quarter of a saltspoonful of salt, half 
that quantity of grated nutmeg, as much cayenne as 
you can take up on the point of a very small pen- 
knife blade ; mix these ingredients with a wooden 
salad spoon thoroughly, and then add, a few drops at 
a time and alternately, three tablespoonfuls of oil, 
and one of vinegar. Pour the preparation marked 
part 1, into this, gradually stirring until the sauces 
are thoroughly mixed ; cool and use. This sauce 
will keep for weeks in a cool place. 

146. Romaine Salad Dressing. — Grate half 
an ounce of onion, mix it with a teaspoonful of lemon 
juice, a saltspoonful each of salt and powdered sugar, 
a level saltspoonful each of white pepper, and dry 
mustard, then gradually add three tablespoonfuls of 
oil, and one of vinegar. Use for lettuce or tomato 
salad. 



CHAPTER IX. 

VEGETABLES. 

Soft water is the best for boiling all vegetables. 
Fresh vegetables boil in one-third less time than stale 
ones. Green vegetables should be put into plenty of 
boiling water and salt, and boiled rapidly, without 
covering, only until tender enough to pierce with the 
finger nail; a bit of common washing soda, or of 
carbonate of ammonia, as large as a dried pea, put 
into the boiling water with any of the vegetables 
except beans, counteracts any excess of mineral ele- 
ments in them, and helps to preserve their color. A 
lump of loaf sugar boiled with turnips neutralizes 
their excessive bitterness. Cabbage, potatoes, car- 
rots, turnips, parsnips, onions, and beets, are injured 
by being boiled with fresh meat, and they also hurt 
the color of the meat, and impair its tenderness and 
flavor. When vegetables are cooked for use witfy 
alt meat, the meat should first be cooked and taken 
from the pot liquor, and the vegetables boiled in the 
latter. The following table will be a guide in boil- 
ing vegetables, but it must be remembered that the 
youngest and freshest boil in the least time ; and that 
in winter all the roots except potatoes require 
nearly double the time to cook, that they would take 



9 2 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



in summer, when they are new ; spinach, ten to fif- 
teen minutes ; brussels sprouts, peas, cauliflowers, 
and asparagus, fifteen to twenty minutes ; potatoes, 
cabbage, corn, and string-beans, twenty to thirty min- 
utes ; turnips, onions, and squash, twenty to forty 
minutes; beets, carrots, and parsnips, about one 
hour. 

147. Asparagus with Melted Butter.— 

Trim the white tough ends from two bunches of as- 
paragus, tie it in packages of about a dozen stalks 
each ; put them into three quarts of boiling water, 
with three tablespoonfuls of salt, and boil them gen- 
tly until done, about twenty minutes ; meantime 
make some drawn butter according to receipt for 
caper sauce, omitting the capers; fit two slices of 
toast to the bottom of the dish you intend to use, 
dip it for one instant in the water in which the aspar- 
agus has been boiled, lay it on the dish, and arrange 
the asparagus in a ring on it with the heads in the 
centre ; send the butter to the table in a gravy boat, 
with the dish of asparagus. 

148. Green Peas. — Boil two quarts of freshly 
{ shelled peas in two quarts of boiling water with half 
an ounce of butter, one bunch of green mint, and 
one teaspoonful each of sugar and salt, until they 
begin to sink to the bottom of the sauce-pan : drain 
them in a colander, season them with a saltspoonful 
of salt, and a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and 
send them to the table hot. 

149. String Beans.— These beans are generally 
marketed while they are unripe, and cooked in the 



VEGETABLES, 



93 



shell ; in that condition two quarts of them should 
be stringed, split in halves, cut in pieces two inches 
long, and thrown into boiling water with a table- 
spoonful of salt, but no soda or ammonia should e 
added, as its action discolors them ; a few sprigs of 
parsley and an ounce of pork can be boiled with them 
to their improvement ; when they are tender, which 
will be in about half an hour, they should be drained, 
and served with melted butter, made as for caper 
sauce, but without the capers. 

150. -Baked Beets. — Clean eight smooth beets 
with a soft cloth or brush ; bake them in a moderate 
oven about one hour; rub off the skin, baste them 
with butter and lemon juice, return them to the oven 
for five minutes, and serve them hot. 

151. Brussels Sprouts. — Trim two quarts of 
Brussels sprouts, wash them thoroughly, put them in 
three quarts of boiling water with two tablespoonfuls 
of salt, and boil them gently until tender, about fifteen 
minutes, shaking the sauce-pan occasionally; then 
drain them in a colander, being careful not to break 
them ; put them again into the sauce-pan with one 
ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of lemon juice, a salt- 
spoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of white 
pepper ; toss them gently over the fire, while you 
make some rounds of buttered toast for the bottom 
of a platter ; when this is ready shake the Brussels 
sprouts upon it, and serve hot. Some persons like 
the addition of two ounces of grated Parmesan 
cheese ; and others serve them with the Bechamel 
sauce named in receipt No. 84. 



94 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



152. Stuffed Cabbage. — Cut the leaves of a 
large white cabbage as whole as possible, cut out the 
stalks, wash the leaves well, and boil them only until 
lender, in three quarts of boiling water and salt, with 
a piece of soda as large as a dried pea ; have ready 
some sausage meat highly seasoned, and as soon as the 
cabbage is tender carefully drain it in a colander, run 
cold water from the faucet over it, and, without tear- 
ing the leaves, lay them open on the table, two or three 
upon each other, making eight or ten piles. Divide 
the sausage meat, and lay a portion in the centre of 
each, fold the cabbage over it in a compact roll and 
tie it in place with cord ; lay the rolls on a baking 
sheet, season with salt and pepper, put over each a 
tablespoonful of any rich brown gravy and brown a 
little in a quick oven ; serve at once, on small rounds 
of toast. 

153. Red Cabbage. — Cut a firm head of red 
cabbage in shreds, lay it in a sauce-pan with the fol- 
lowing ingredients ; one gill of vinegar, one teaspoon- 
ful each of ground cloves and salt, half a saltspoon- 
ful of pepper, two ounces of butter, and two ounces 
of sugar ; stew it gently until tender, about one hour, 
shaking the pan to prevent burning, and serve 
it hot. 

154. Baked Cauliflower. — Thoroughly wash 
a large cauliflower, boil it in plenty of boiling water 
and salt, until tender, about twenty minutes ; drain 
it whole ; pour over it one gill of Bechai7iel sauce, 
made as in receipt No. 84, dust it thickly with crack- 
er dust, or bread crumbs, and Parmesan cheese, 



VEGETABLES. 



95 



mixed in equal proportions, and brown it ten min- 
utes in a quick oven. 

155. Baked Turnips. — Pare six large yellow 
turnips, slice them, and boil them till tender in plenty 
of salted water ; drain them, put them on a flat dish in 
layers, pour over them half a pint of Bechamel sauce, 
dust them thickly with crumbs and grated Parmesan 
cheese ; brown them in a quick oven, and serve hot. 

156. Glazed Onions. — Pare three dozen but- 
ton onions, put them on a tin dish, pour over them 
a very little Spanish sauce or brown gravy, just 
enough to moisten them, season them with a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of 
pepper ; brown them in a quick oven, shaking them 
occasionally to color them equally ; serve hot. 

157. Mushroom Pudding. — Cleanse a quart 
of fresh mushrooms, cut them in small pieces, mix 
them with half a pound of minced ham or bacon, sea- 
son them with a teaspoonful of salt, and half a salt- 
spoonful of pepper ; spread them on a roly-poly crust 
made by mixing one pound of flour, half a pound of 
shortening, and a teaspoonful of salt, with about one 
pint of water : roll up the crust, tie it tightly in a floured 
cloth, and boil it about two hours in boiling stock, 
or salted water ; serve hot with bread, or vegetables. 

158. Boiled Potatoes. — Potatoes should be 
prepared for boiling by first carefully washing them, 
removing the deep eyes or defective parts, and then 
paring off one ring all around the potato ; place them 
in cold water with a little salt ; when cooked, which 
will be in from twenty to thirty minutes, pour 



9 6 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



off all the water, cover them with a clean, coarse 
towel, leaving off the lid of the pot, and set them on a 
hot brick on the back of the fire to steam. Pota- 
toes treated in this way can be kept fresh, hot and 
mealy for hours. Medium-sized and smooth pota- 
toes are the most economical to use, and the kind 
should be selected in reference to the season. 

159. Lyonnaise Potatoes. — Chop two ounces 
of onion, and fry it pale yellow in two ounces of but- 
ter; meantime peel boiled potatoes, either hot or 
cold, cut them in slices, put them into the pan con- 
taining the onion and butter, season them with a 
teaspoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of pep- 
per, fry them pale brown, shaking the pan to prevent 
burning, and tossing it to brown them evenly ; 
sprinkle with two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, 
and serve at once. 

160. Stuffed Potatoes. — Wash twelve large 
potatoes with a brush ; bake them only until they be- 
gin to soften ; not more than half an hour ; cut off 
one end, scoop out the mside with a teaspoon into a 
sauce-pan containing two ounces of butter, one salt- 
spoonful of white pepper, one teaspoonful of salt, 
and two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese ; stir all 
these ingredients over the fire until they are scalding 
hot; then fill the potato skins with the mixture, put 
on the ends, press the potatoes gently in shape, heat 
them in the oven, and serve them on a hot dish cov- 
ered with a napkin, the potatoes being laid on the 
napkin. Observe never to cover a baked potato unless 
you want it to be heavy and moist. 



VEGETABLES. 



97 



161. Potato Snow. — Peel a quart of white po- 
tatoes, and boil them as directed in receipt No. 158; 
drain them thoroughly, put them in a sieve over the 
dish in which they are to be served, and rub them 
through it with a potato masher, or a wooden spoon ; 
do not stir them after they are put into the dish, and 
serve them hot. 

162. Bermuda or New Potatoes. — Wash a 
quart of new potatoes thoroughly, put them into 
plenty of boiling water and salt, and boil them until 
tender enough to pierce easily with a fork; drain off 
the water, cover them with a towel, let them steam 
five minutes, and serve them in their jackets. 

163. Broiled Potatoes. — Boil a quart of even 
sized potatoes until tender, but do not let them grow 
mealy ; drain off the water, peel the potatoes, cut 
them in half inch slices, dip them in melted butter, 
and broil them over a moderate fire ; serve hot, with 
a little butter melted. 

164. Saratoga Potatoes. — Peel a quart of 
potatoes, cut them in very thin slices, and lay them 
in cold water and salt for an hour or more ; then dry 
them on a towel, throw them into a deep kettle of 
smoking hot fat, and fry them light brown ; take them 
out of the fat with a skimmer into a colander, scatter 
over them a teaspoonful of salt, shake them well 
about, and turn them on a platter to serve. 

165. Broiled Tomatoes. — Wipe half a dozen 
large red tomatoes, cut them in half inch slices, dip 
them in melted butter, season them with salt and pep- 
per dip them in cracker crumbs, and broil them on 

5 



9 8 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



an oiled gridiron over a moderate fire, being very 
careful not to break the slices in turning them. Serve 
them with chops for breakfast. 

166. Stuffed Tomatoes. — Cutoff the tops from 
eight or ten large smooth round tomatoes ; scoop out 
the inside, and put it into a sauce-pan with quarter 
of a pound of scraps of ham, bacon or tongue minced 
fine, a saltspoonful of salt, two ounces of butter, half 
an ounce of chopped parsley, and four ounces of 
grated cheese and bread crumbs mixed ; stir these 
ingredients over the fire until they are scalding hot, 
fill the tomato skins with this forcemeat, fit them 
neatly together, dust them with sifted bread crumbs, 
put over each a very little sweet oil to prevent burn- 
ing, brown them in a quick oven, and serve them on 
a hot dish with their own gravy turned over them. 

167. Saratoga Onions. — Slice half a dozen 
delicately flavored onions in small strips ; drop them 
into plenty of smoking hot fat, fry them pale brown, 
and drain them for a moment in a colander. Serve 
hot for breakfast or lunch. 

168. Fried Beans. — Fry two ounces of chop- 
ped onions in one ounce of butter until golden 
brown ; put into them about a quart of cold boiled 
white beans, season them with a teaspoonful of salt, 
and half a saltspooonful of pepper, moisten them with 
half a pint of any brown gravy, and serve them hot. 

169. Ham and Beans. — Put into a sauce-pan 
two ounces of butter, half a saltspoonful each of 
salt and pepper, one quart of cold beans, and quar- 
ter of a pound of ham chopped fine ; moisten these 



VEGETABLES. 



99 



ingredients with a little gravy of any kind, heat them 
thoroughly, and serve at once. 

170. Kolcannon. — Mince an ounce of onion, 
fry it pale yellow in one ounce of butter, add to it 
equal parts of cold boiled potatoes and cabbage, 
season with a teaspoonful of salt, and half a salt- 
spoonful of pepper, and fry for fifteen minutes ; serve 
hot for breakfast or lunch. 

171. Carrot Stew. — Clean, boil, and quarter 
three large carrots ; cut the pieces in two ; simmer 
them gently in milk enough to cover them, season 
with a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pep- 
per ; when they are quite tender take them off the 
fire long enough to stir in the raw yolk of an egg, 
return them to the fire two minutes to cook the egg, 
and serve them hot at once. 

172. Baked Mushrooms. — Clean a quart of 
medium sized mushrooms, trim off the roots, dip 
them first in some maitre d'hotel butter made of 
equal parts of chopped parsley, lemon juice, and 
sweet butter, then roll them in cracker or bread 
crumbs, lay them on a dish, and just brown them in 
a quick oven. 

173. Stuffed Lettuce. — Choose four round 
firm heads of lettuce, first bring them to a boil in hot 
water and salt, drain them carefully, cut out the 
stalk end, fill the inside of the head with minced 
veal or chicken highly seasoned, lay them on a bak- 
ing pan, put a tablespoonful of some brown gravy 
over each, and then bake in a moderate oven about 
fifteen minutes. 



IOO 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



174. Stewed Parsnips.— Wash eight parsnips, 
carefully cut each in four pieces, boil them in plenty 
of water, until tender, from twenty minutes to an 
hour, according to the season ,* then drain off the 
water, make a layer of quarter of a pound of salt 
pork on the bottom of the pot, put the parsnips in 
again, and fry them until brown; serve the pork 
with them on a platter. 



CHAPTER X. 



CHEAP DISHES WITHOUT MEAT. 

" Bread is the staff of life ; " in all ages and coun- 
tries farinaceous foods have formed the bulk of man's 
sustenance ; under this general term we include maca- 
roni, which contains more gluten than bread and 
consequently is more nourishing, the different wheat 
flours, oat and barley meal, pearl barley, peas, beans, 
and lentils ; the latter are the nearest article to meat 
in point of nourishment, containing heat-food in 
quantity nearly equal to wheat, and twice as much 
flesh food. Lentils have been used for food in older 
countries from time immemorial, and it is quite time 
that we should become acquainted with their merits ; 
a lentil soup is given in the second chapter, and in 
this we append some excellent directions for cooking 
this invaluable food. One quart of lentils when 
cooked will make four pounds of hearty food. 
There are two varieties in market ; the small flat 
brown seed, called lentils a la reine ; and a larger 
kind, about the size of peas, and of a greenish color ; 
both sorts are equally well flavored and nutritious. 
There is no reason why, with judicious seasoning, the 
"dinner of herbs" should lack the gustatory enjoy- 
ment which is popularly supposed to belong to the 



102 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



repast furnished by the 4< stalled ox; " especially i/ 
we are economical enough to save towards making it 
any pot-liquor, or cold meat gravy or drippings, 
which are left from a feast-day. 

175. Potato Soup. — Slice six onions, fry them 
brown with two ounces of drippings, then add two 
ounces of flour and brown it ; add four quarts of 
boiling water, and stir till the soup boils ; season 
with a level tablespoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of 
pepper ; add one quart of potatoes peeled and cut fine, 
and boil all until they are tender; then stir in four 
ounces of oatmeal mixed smooth with a pint of cold 
water, and boil fifteen minutes ; this soup should be 
stirred often enough to prevent burning ; when it is 
nearly done mix together off the fire one ounce each 
of butter and flour, and stir them into the soup ; 
when it boils up pass through a sieve with a wooden 
spoon, and serve hot with plenty of bread. 

176. Scotch Crowdie. — Boil one pound of oat- 
meal one hour in four quarts of any kind of pot- 
liquor, stirring often enough to prevent burning ; 
season with one tablespoonful of salt, a level salt- 
spoonful of pepper, one ounce of butter, and serve 
with plenty of bread. 

177. Peas-pudding. — Soak three pints of dried 
peas in cold water over night ; tie them loosely in a 
clean cloth, and boil them about two hours in pot- 
liquor or water, putting them into it cold and bring- 
ing them gradually to a boil ; drain them, pass them 
through a sieve with a wooden spoon, season them 
with a level tablespoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful 



CHEAP DISHES WITHOUT MEAT 103 



of pepper, one ounce of butter, and one egg, if it is 
on hand ; mix, tie in a clean cloth, and boil half an 
hour longer ; then turn it from the cloth, on a dish, 
and serve hot. 

178. Red Herrings with Potatoes. — Soak 
a dozen herrings in cold water for one hour; dry 
and skin them, split them down the back, and lay 
them in a pan with two ounces of drippings, two 
ounces of onion chopped fine, a saltspoonful of pep- 
per, and three tablespoonfuls of vinegar ; and set 
them in a moderate oven to brown for ten or fifteen 
minutes : meantime, boil one quart of potatoes, with 
a ring of the paring taken off, in plenty of boiling 
water and salt, pouring off the water as soon as they 
are tender, and letting them stand on the back of the 
fire, covered with a dry towel, for five minutes ; serve 
them with the herrings, taking care to dish both quite 
hot. 

179. Oatmeal Porridge. — Boil two ounces of 
chopped onion in two quarts of skim milk ; mix half 
a pound of oatmeal smooth with about a pint of milk, 
pour it into the boiling milk, season it with a table- 
spoonful of salt, boil it about twenty minutes, stir- 
ring to prevent burning, and serve hot. 

180. Cheese Pudding. — Into two quarts of 
boiling water, containing two tablespoonfuls of salt, 
stir one pound of yellow Indian meal, and three 
quarters of a pound of grated cheese ; boil it for 
twenty minutes, stirring it occasionally to prevent 
burning ; then put it in a buttered baking pan, 
sprinkle over the top quarter of a pound of grated 



104 THE COOKING MANUAL. 



cheese, and brown in a quick oven. Serve hot. If 
any remains, slice it cold and fry it brown. 

181. Polenta. — Boil one pound of yellow In- 
dian meal for half an hour, in two quarts of pot- 
liquor, stirring it occasionally to prevent burning; 
then bake it for half an hour in a buttered baking 
dish, and serve it either hot ; or, when cold, slice it 
and fry it in smoking hot fat. This favorite Italian 
dish is closely allied to the hasty-pudding of New 
England, whose praises have been sung by poe- 
tasters. 

182. Fish Pudding- — Make a plain paste by 
mixing quarter of a pound of lard or sweet drippings 
with half a pound of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, 
and just water enough to make a stiff paste; roll it 
out; line the edges of a deep pudding dish with it 
half way down ; fill the dish with layers of fresh cod- 
fish cut in small pieces, using two or three pounds, 
season each layer with salt, pepper, chopped pars- 
ley, and chopped onions, using one tablespoonful of 
salt, one saltspoonful of pepper, two bay leaves, a 
saltspoonful of thyme, four ounces of onion, and half 
an ounce of parsley ; fill up the dish with any cold 
gravy, milk, or water, cover with paste, and bake fif- 
teen minutes in a quick oven ; finish by baking half 
an hour in a moderate oven ; serve hot. 

183. Lentils boiled plain. — Wash two pounds 
of lentils well in cold water, put them over the fire, 
in four quarts of cold water with one ounce of drip- 
pings, one tablespoonful of salt, and a saltspoon- 
ful of pepper, and boil slowly until tender, that is 



CHEAP DISHES WITHOUT MEAT. 105 



about three hours ; drain off the little water which 
remains, add to the lentils one ounce of butter, a 
tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of 
sugar, and a little more salt and pepper if required, 
and serve them hot. Always save the water in which 
they are boiled ; with the addition of a little thicken- 
ing and seasoning, it makes a very nourishing soup. 

184. Stewed Lentils. — Put plain boiled len- 
tils into a sauce-pan, cover them with any kind of 
pot-liquor, add one ounce of chopped onion, two 
ounces of butter, quarter of an ounce of chopped 
parsley, and stew gently for twenty minutes ; serve 
hot. 

185. Fried Lentils. — Fry one ounce of chop- 
ped onion brown in two ounces of drippings, add 
plain boiled lentils, see if they are properly sea- 
soned, and brown them well ; serve hot. 

186. Norfolk Dumplings. — Mix well together 
two pounds of flour, one dessertspoonful of salt, and 
two pints of milk ; divide the dough in twelve equal 
parts, and drop them into a pot of boiling pot-liquor, 
or boiling water; boil them steadily half an hour. 
They should be eaten hot, with gravy, sweet drippings, 
or a little molasses. 

187. Salt Cod with Parsnips. — Soak three 
pounds of salt fish over night, with the skin uppermost, 
and boil it about one hour, putting it into plenty of 
cold water. Meantime pare half a dozen parsnips, 
and cut them in quarters, boil them half an hour, or 
longer, until tender, drain them, and dish them 
around the fish. While the fish and parsnips are 



io6 THE COOKING MANUAL. 



cooking make the following sauce : mix two ounces 
of flour and one ounce of butter or sweet drippings, 
over the fire until a smooth paste is formed; then 
pour in half a pint of boiling water gradually, stirring 
until the sauce is smooth, add three tablespoonfuls 
of vinegar, season with one saltspoonful of salt, and 
half that quantity of pepper; let the sauce boil up 
thoroughly for about three minutes, and serve it with 
the fish and parsnips, A hard boiled egg chopped 
and added to the sauce improves it. 

1 88. Pickled Mackerel.— When fresh mackerel 
or herrings can be bought cheap, clean enough to fill 
a two quart deep jar, pack them in it in layers with 
a seasoning of a tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoon- 
ful of powdered herbs a saltspoonful each of pepper 
and allspice, and cover with vinegar and cold water, 
in equal parts. Bake about one hour in a moderate 
oven. Serve with plain boiled potatoes. 

189. Potato Pudding. — Wash and peel two 
quarts of potatoes ; peel and slice about six ounces of 
onions ; skin and bone two bloaters or large herrings ; 
put all these ingredients in a baking dish in layers 
seasoning them with a dessertspoonful of salt and a 
saltspoonful of pepper; pour over them any cold 
gravy you have on hand, or add two or three ounces 
of drippings ; if you have neither of these, water will 
answer ; bake the pudding an hour and a half ; serve 
tot, with bread. 



CHAPTER XL 



CHEAP DISHES WITH MEAT. 

Those parts of meat which are usually called in- 
ferior, and sold at low rates, such as the head, tongue, 
brains, pluck, tripe, feet, and tail, can be cooked so 
as to become both nourishing and delicate. They 
are more generally eaten in Europe than in this 
country, and they are really worthy of careful pre- 
paration ; for instance, take the haslet ragout, the 
receipt for which is given further on in this chapter. 
The author owes this receipt to the fortunate circum- 
stance of one day procuring a calf's liver direct from 
the slaughter-house, with the heart and lights at- 
tached ; the liver was to be larded and cooked as 
directed in receipt No. 53, at a cooking lesson ; the 
chef said, after laying aside the liver, " I will make 
for myself a dish of what the ladies would not 
choose," and at the direction of the author he cooked 
it before the class ; the ladies tasted and approved. 
The nutritive value and flavor of the dishes specified 
in this chapter are less than those of prime cuts of 
meat, *but properly combined with vegetables and 
cereals, they completely take the place of those more 
expensive foods ; they should be thoroughly cooked, 



io8 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



and well masticated; and can usually be digested 
with greater ease than the more solid flesh. 

190. Three dishes from a Neck of Mut- 
ton. — Part I. — Barley Broth with Vege- 
tables. — Trim a neck of mutton into neat cutlets, 
and reserve them for part 2 ; put the bones and trim- 
mings into three quarts of cold water, boil slowly, 
and skim thoroughly : add six ounces of barley which 
has been soaked in cold water over night, a bouquet 
of sweet herbs, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and one salt- 
spoonful of pepper, and simmer for two hours ; strain 
out one quart of the broth for pari 3, then add six 
ounces of carrots, four ounces of onions, and four 
ounces of yellow turnips cut in dice about half an 
inch square, six ounces of oatmeal mixed to a smooth 
batter with cold water, and simmer until the vege- 
tables are tender, which will be about half an hour : 
taste to try the seasoning and serve hot. — Part II. 
Mutton Stew. — Cut half a quart each of yellow 
turnips and potatoes into balls as large as marbles, 
saving the trimmings to put into soup, and for mashed 
potatoes ; peel six ounces of small onions ; put all 
these in separate vessels to boil until tender enough to 
pierce with a fork ; meantime put the cutlets in a hot 
pan containing an ounce of drippings, and fry them 
brown quickly; stir among them one ounce of dry 
flour; brown it, add one quart of boiling water; sea- 
son with one teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a 
saltspoonful of pepper; drain the vegetables, put 
them with the meat and gravy, and serve hot. — Part 
III. — Fried Pudding. — To the quart of broth 



CHEAP DISHES WITH ME A T 109 



strained off as directed in Part I, and brought to the 
boiling point, gradually add sufficient Indian meal 
to thicken it, about half a pound will generally be 
enough ; season with a teaspoonful of salt, and boil 
it for twenty minutes, stirring it occasionally to 
prevent burning; pour it out into a deep earthen 
dish, and let it stand long enough to grow solid ; then 
cut it in slices, and fry it brown in drippings ; it can 
be eaten with molasses for dessert. With proper 
management all these dishes can be ready at one 
time, and will form a good and wholesome dinner. 

191. Neck of Pork stuffed, — Clean a neck of 
fresh pork, fill it with sage and onion stuffing, made 
according to receipt No. 107 ; put it in a dripping pan, 
with some small potatoes, peeled and washed well in 
cold water, roast it brown, seasoning with a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of pepper, 
when it is half done ; when it is thoroughly cooked 
serve it with the potatoes laid around it, and a gravy 
made from the drippings in the pan cleared of fat, and 
thickened with a teaspoonful of flour. 

192. Pigs' Feet Fried. — Thoroughly burn all 
the hairs off with a poker heated to a white heat ; 
then scald the feet, wipe them dry, and put them 
over the fire to boil in cold water, with two ounces 
each of carrot and onion, the latter stuck with six 
cloves, two tablespoonfuls of salt, quarter of an ounce 
of parsley made into a bouquet with three bay leaves 
and a sprig of thyme ; boil them slowly four hours, 
or more, until you can easily remove the bones. 
Split the feet in two pieces, and take out all the large 



HO THE COOKING MANUAL. 



borxes ; have ready some sifted crumbs of cracker, or 
dry bread, a little milk, or an egg beaten with a tea- 
spoonful of water; dry the pieces on a clean towel, 
roll them first in the crumbs, then dip them in the 
milk or egg, and roll them again in the crumbs ; fry 
them in smoking hot lard, which you must after- 
wards strain and save to use again, and lay them 
neatly on a hot dish ; they will make an appetizing 
and nourishing meaL 

193. Pigs' Tongue and Brains. — Soak them 
in cold water with two tablespoonfuls of salt for two 
hours ; then put them into cold water over the fire, 
with two ounces each of carrot and onion, the lattei 
stuck with three cloves, a bouquet of sweet herbs, 
and a tablespoonful of vinegar, and boil slowly fifteen 
minutes ; take out the brains leaving the tongue still 
boiling, and put them in cold water to cool ; then 
carefully remove the thin membrane or skin cover- 
ing the brains, without breaking them ; season them 
with a saltspoonful of salt and quarter of a saltspoon- 
ful of pepper, roll them in cracker crumbs, and fry 
them brown in smoking hot fat. By this time the 
tongue will be tender ; take it up, lay it on a dish 
between the brains, put a few sprigs of parsley, celery, 
mint or watercresses, around them and serve them 
hot. This inexpensive dish is very delicate and 
nutritious. 

194. Roasted Tripe. — Cut some tripe in 
pieces three inches long by six wide ; cover each 
one with highly seasoned sausage-meat, roll up, and 
tie with a string; lay the rolls in a dripping pan, 



CHEAP DISHES WITH MEAT. Ill 



dredge them well with flour, and set them in the 
oven to bake, basting them with the liquor which 
flows from them ; when they are nicely browned, 
dish them up with a slice of lemon on each one. 
Some melted butter may be put over them if desired. 

195. Ragout of Haslet. — Wash the haslet 
cut it in two inch pieces, put them into a sauce- 
pan with one ounce each of butter, salt pork sliced, 
onion chopped, one dessertspoonful of salt, and halt 
a saltspoonful of black pepper ; two bay leaves, two 
sprigs of parsley and one of thyme, tied in a bouquet, 
one ounce of flour, one gill of vinegar, half a pint of 
cold gravy or cold water, and six potatoes peeled 
and cut in dice ; stew all these ingredients gently 
together for two hours, and serve as you would a 
stew, with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley 
sprinkled over the top. 

196. Cock-a-leeky. — Pluck, singe, and draw 
a cheap fowl, as directed in receipt No. 99 ; break 
the breast bone down with a rolling-pin, tie the fowl 
in a plump shape, put it into a sauce-pan with four 
quarts of cold water, one pound of rice, first washed 
§1 cold water, a tablespoonful of salt, half a salt- 
spoonful of pepper, and a bunch of leeks weighing 
about a pound, cut in two-inch pieces. Boil all 
gently for three hours, stirring occasionally to pre- 
vent the rice burning ; serve the fowl on one dish 
with a tablespoonful of parsley chopped and sprinkled 
over it, and the rice and broth in a soup tureen 01 
deep dish. 

197. Italian Cheese.— Chop a pig's pluck s 



112 THE COOKING MANUAL. 



and two pounds of scraps or trimmings of fresh 
pork, season this forcemeat to taste with the spice 
salt of mixed spices and sweet herbs named in 
Chapter first; put it into an earthen jar with a lid, 
seal the lid with a paste made of flour and water, 
and oiled upon the surface to prevent cracking; put 
the jar in a moderate oven, and bake the cheese 
three hours, slowly. This dish is eaten cold with 
bread, in place of butter, and makes a hearty 
meal. 

198. Gammon Dumpling. — Make a plain 
paste of two pounds of flour, one dessertspoonful of 
salt, half a pound of finely chopped suet or scraps, 
and sufficient cold water to mix it to a stiff dough ; 
roll this out about half an inch thick, spread over it 
about two pounds of any cheap cut of bacon or ham, 
finely chopped, roll up the dumpling as you would a 
roly-poly pudding, tie it tightly in a clean cloth, and 
boil it in boiling water, or boiling pot-liquor, for 
about three hours. Serve it hot, with plain boiled 
potatoes. 

199. Toad-in-the-Hole. — Cut two pounds of 
the cheapest parts of any good meat into small 
pieces, roll them in flour, pepper, and salt, and fry 
them brown in two ounces of drippings ; meantime 
prepare a batter as follows ; mix one pound of flour, 
one heaping teaspoonful of salt, half a nutmeg 
grated, and two eggs, stirred in without beating; 
gradually add three pints of skim-milk, making a 
smooth batter ; add the meat and its gravy to this 
batter, put it in a greased baking dish, and bake it 



CHEAP DISHES WITH MEAT. 113 



slowly about two hours. Serve it with plain boiled 
potatoes. 

200. Bacon Roly-Poly. — Boil a pound and a 
half of bacon for half an hour ; then slice it thin ; 
peel and slice six apples and the same number of 
onions; make a stiff dough of two pounds of flour, a 
teaspoonful of salt, and cold water ; roll it out half 
an inch thick ; lay the bacon, apples, and onion all 
over it, roll it up, tie it tightly in a clean cloth, and 
boil it about two hours, in plenty of boiling water. 
Serve it with boiled potatoes, or boiled cabbage. 

201. Baked Ox-heart. — Clean the heart thor- 
oughly ; stuff it with the following forcemeat ; one 
ounce of onion chopped fine, a tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley, a saltspoonful of powdered sage or 
thyme, a teaspoonful of salt, half a small loaf of bread, 
and enough warm water to moisten the bread ; mix, 
stuff the heart with it, and bake it an hour in a good 
hot oven, basting it occasionally with the liquor that 
flows from it, and when half done seasoning it well 
with salt and pepper. Serve hot with plain boiled 
potatoes, or with potatoes peeled, and baked in the 
pan with the heart. 

202. Tripe and Onions. — Cut two pounds of 
tripe in pieces two inches square ; peel and slice six 
large onions and ten potatoes ; slice a quarter of a 
pound of salt pork or bacon ; put the bacon in the 
bottom of a pot, with the tripe and vegetables ir. 
layers on it, seasoning with a tablespoonful of salt, a 
saltspoonful of pepper, and the same of powdered 
herbs ; mix a pound of flour gradually with a quart 



114 THE COOKING MANUAL. 



and a half of cold water, pour it over the tripe and 
vegetables, and boil it gently for two hours. Serve 
hot with bread. 

203. Peas and Bacon. — Cut a quarter of a 
pound of fat bacon in small bits, and fry it brown 
with two ounces of onions sliced ; then add four 
ounces of split peas, one tablespoonful of salt, one 
saltspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful of sugar, and 
four quarts of cold water ; boil it until the peas are 
reduced to a pulp, which will be about three hours ; 
then stir in sufficient oatmeal to thicken it, and boil 
slowly twenty minutes, stirring it occasionally ; 
serve hot ; or when cold, slice and fry it brown. 

204. Pot-au-feu. — Put into four quarts of cold 
water one pound of cheap lean meat, and one pound 
of liver whole, some bones, cut into bits, two table- 
spoonfuls of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, four 
leeks cut in pieces, and the following vegetables 
whole ; four carrots, four turnips, and four onions, 
each stuck with two cloves ; boil all gently for three 
hours, skimming occasionally, and adding two table- 
spoonfuls of cold water about every half hour ; take 
up the meat and the liver on a platter, arrange the 
vegetables neatly around them, and serve the broth 
in a tureen, with plenty of bread. 

205. Ragout of Mutton. — Cut four pounds 
of the scrag end of mutton in small pieces ; peel a 
quart of turnips and cut them in round pieces as 
large as a walnut, and fry them brown in four ounces 
of fat ; take them up, mix into the fat four ounces of 
flour, and brown it ; add the mutton and sufficient 



CHEAP DISHES WITH MEAT. 115 



cold water to cover the meat, and stir until it boils ; 
season with a tablespoonful of salt, half a saltspoon- 
ful of pepper, a teaspoonful of sugar, and an ounce 
of onion if the flavor is liked ; simmer gently until 
the meat is tender, about two hours ; then add the 
turnips, heat them, and serve hot. 



CHAPTER XIL 



THE CHILDREN'S CHAPTER. 

Any elaborate discussion of the relations of food 
to the needs of the body would not come within the 
scope of a work of this character ; but there are a 
few facts concerning the diet of children to which we 
would call the attention of those mothers who wish 
their little brood to brighten home with radiant eyes, 
rosy cheeks, plump, graceful forms, and hearts bub- 
bling over with the vivacity which springs from per- 
fect health. Let them discard sago, arrowroot, and 
tapioca, all largely composed of starch, as compara- 
tively useless in nourishing the growing body, which 
calls for the most complete nutrients ; these often do 
very well in illness, where no great degree of nourish- 
ment is necessary, and where simply a given quantity 
of bland, innutritious food is required to help the 
system do without stronger aliment, calculated to 
irritate overworked and sensitive organs. 

Indigestible articles, such as fat meat, rich pastry, 
hot bread, unripe fruit and vegetables, tea, coffee, 
spices, and stimulants, should be avoided in the diet 
of children. Good wheaten bread, farina, ripe fruit, 
fresh vegetables, meat-juices, milk, and sugar, should 
make up the list of staples ; when meats are used they 



THE CHILDREN'S CHAPTER. - 1 17 



should be nutritious and digestible, such as good 
mutton, young beef, and tender poultry ; bread and 
milk and fruit, for breakfast ; meat, vegetables, bread 
jind some light dessert, for dinner; bread and milk, 
yt their equivalents, for supper ; in other words, plain 
food and plenty of it, will keep mind and body in a 
sound condition, and supply all the requirements of 
growth. 

Meats should be carefully cooked, so as to pre- 
serve all their natural juices ; but no rich sauces, or 
made gravies, should accompany them to the table ; 
a few ripe vegetables cooked until perfectly tender, 
roasted or baked potatoes, seed-bearing fruits, gen- 
erally stewed, and plenty of light bread at least a day 
old, should be eaten with the meat. In stewing fruit 
only enough water should be used to prevent burning, 
and plenty of sugar should be employed to sweeten 
it; all fruit is less apt to be injurious if eaten early in 
the day. Eggs should be plain boiled, and rather 
soft. Milk should be boiled when there is any undue 
action of the bowels; otherwise it should be used 
uncooked with plenty of bread. 

Hearty, vigorous children, who play much in the 
open air, can digest more meat than those who are 
confined indoors ; and the cravings of a healthy ap- 
petite should always be appeased, care being taken 
that the stomach has the proper intervals of rest. 
Regularity of meals is really most important at all 
ages ; the digestive organs must have time to assimi- 
late their food supply. In childhood and youth, the 
period of growth, the needs of the system are more 



Il8 THE COOKING MANUAL. 



pressing than at any other time of life; if at this 
time children are fed on rich and stimulating food, 
they will be prone to fevers ; if they are underfed 
they suffer both mentally and physically jrom slow 
starvation ; equal and regular nutrition is imperative 
to the well being of the little ones, if we would have 
them grow up capable of performing in the fullest 
degree the highest functions of life. Therefore give 
the children plenty of plain, wholesome food ; their 
active systems will appropriate it. If they continue 
serene in temper, equable in disposition, and gen- 
erally healthy, — if the eyes are bright, the skin clear, 
the sleep serene, — the diet is proper and sufficient. 

In the following receipts for preparing children's 
food the quantities are calculated for four. 

206. Oatmeal Porridge. — Oatmeal is an ex- 
tremely strengthening food ; when it is well cooked 
it produces a large volume of nutritive matter in pro- 
portion to its bulk ; and combined with milk it is the 
strongest and best of the cereals. Its flavor is sweet 
and pleasant ; it appears in market in two forms, a 
rather rough meal, and the unbroken grain, after the 
husk has been removed ; in either shape it should be 
thoroughly boiled, and combined with milk. A good 
thick porridge can be made by stirring four ounces 
of oatmeal into a quart of boiling milk, and then 
pouring this into a quart of water boiling on the fire, 
and allowing it to boil half or three-quarters of an 
hour ; care must be taken not to burn it; just before 
it is done it should be seasoned with a teaspoonful 
of salt ; and sweetened to taste at the table. 



THE CHILDREN'S CHAPTER, 119 



207. A good Breakfast can be made of fresh 
milk sweetened with a little sugar and eaten with 
bread a day old, lightly buttered. 

208. Stewed Fruit, — Put a quart of apples 
pared and sliced over the fire in a thick sauce-pan, 
with half a pint of water, to prevent burning, and 
when tender break them well up and sweeten them 
with four ounces or more of sugar, according to the 
flavor of the apples. Serve them with bread and 
butter in the morning, or at noon. 

209. Ripe Currants. — A pound of ripe cur- 
rants mashed, and mixed with half a pound, or more, 
of sugar, makes an excellent accompaniment for 
bread, being served spread upon the slices. 

210. Blackberry Jam. — This is an invaluable 
addition to the breakfast, or noon dinner, in place 
of butter. It is an excellent agent for regulating 
the action of the bowels. It is made by boiling with 
every pound of thoroughly ripe blackberries half a 
pound of good brown sugar ; the boiling to be con- 
tinued one hour, and the berries well broken up. 

211. Baked Fruit. — In addition to baking 
apples in the ordinary way, plums, peaches, pears, 
and berries, are good when put into a stone jar with 
layers of stale bread and sugar, and about a gill of 
water, and baking the fruit slowly in a moderate 
oven for an hour and a half. 

212. Broiled Chops. — Trim nearly all the fat 
from a pound of loin mutton chops, broil them over 
a clear, bright fire for about fifteen minutes, taking 
care not to burn them ; when they are done put 



120 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



them on a hot platter, season them with half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and if they are very dry put a little 
butter over them, using not more than a quarter of 
an ounce. Serve them with mashed potatoes. 

213. Beefsteak. — A tender sirloin steak is the 
best cut for general use. It should be chosen in ac- 
cordance with the directions given in the chapter on 
marketing, and broiled over a brisk, clear fire for 
about twenty minutes ; the seasoning of salt should 
be added after it is taken from the fire, and placed 
on a hot dish ; and but very little butter, if any, 
should be used. Serve it with baked potatoes, finely 
broken with a fork. 

214. Broiled Chicken. — A tender, but not 
very fat chicken, makes an excellent dinner for chil- 
dren. It should be plucked, singed, split down tte 
back, carefully drawn, and wiped with a damp cloth, 
but not washed ; the joints and breast-bone should 
be broken with the rolling pin, the chicken being 
covered with a folded towel to protect the flesh ; it 
should then be broiled, inside first, over a clear, brisk 
fire, or better still, laid in a pan on a couple of slices 
t * bread, and quickly roasted in a hot oven ; by the 
1 tter process all the juices of the bird are saved ; 
some gravy will flow from a good chicken, and from 
this the superfluous fat should be removed ; if the 
chicken is very fat the bread under it should not be 
given to the children. 

215. Boiled Eggs. — Eggs are usually spoiled 
in cooking ; if they are plunged into boiling water, 
and maintained at the boiling point, the effect is to 



THE CHILDREN'S CHAPTER, \7\ 



harden the albumen while the yolk remains almost 
raw, and make them totally unfit for digestion. A 
good way to cook them is to place them over the fire 
in cold water, bring them slowly to a boil, and then 
at once set the vessel containing them back from 
the fire, and let the eggs stand in the water about 
one minute if they are to be soft, and two minutes, 
or longer, if they are to be hard. Poor eggs cooked 
in this way are superior in flavor and digestibility to 
new-laid eggs boiled rapidly. One minute is quite 
long enough to boil them if they are wanted in their 
best condition. 

216. Baked Potatoes. — Potatoes for baking 
should be of equal and medium size, with smooth 
skins ; they should be well washed with a brush or 
cloth, and put into a quick oven ; they will bake in 
from twenty to thirty-five minutes, according to 
variety and ripeness ; as soon as you find they yield 
readily when pressed between the fingers, they are 
done ; and should be served at once, uncovered. If 
they stand they grow heavy, and if you put them in a 
covered dish you will make them watery. 

217. Boiled Potatoes. — Potatoes for children's 
use should be very carefully boiled ; and if not used 
as soon as they are done, should be kept hot and dry, 
by pouring off the water, covering them with a dry 
cloth, and setting them on the back of the stove. 
After washing them thoroughly, pare them entirely, 
or take off one ring around each ; if they are new, 
put them over the fire in hot water ; if they are old, 
put them on in cold water; in either case, add a 

6 



122 THE COOKING MANUAL. 



tablespoonful of salt, and boil them from fifteen to 
thirty minutes, as they require, until you can pierce 
them easily with a fork ; then drain off all the water, 
cover them with a clean dry towel, and set them 
on the back of the fire until you are ready to use 
them. 

218. Apple Cake.— Grate a small loaf of stale 
bread ; pare and slice about a quart of apples ; lightly 
butter a pudding mould, dust it well with flour, and 
then with sugar, and fill it with layers of bread 
crumbs, apples, and sugar, using a very little cinna- 
mon to flavor it ; let the top layer be of crumbs, and 
put a few bits of butter on it ; bake the cake for one 
hour in a moderate oven ; and serve it for dessert. 

219. Fruit Farina. — Sprinkle three tablespoon- 
fuls of farina into one quart of boiling milk, using a 
sauce-pan set into a kettle of boiling water, in order 
to prevent burning ; flavor and sweeten to taste, and 
boil for half an hour, stirring occasionally ; then add 
one pint of any ripe berries, or sliced apples, and 
boil until the fruit is cooked, about twenty minutes : 
the pudding may be boiled in a mould or a cloth 
after the fruit is added. It should be served with 
powdered sugar. 

220. Plain Cookies. — Beat one egg with one 
cup of sugar to a cream, work two ounces of butter 
soft, and beat it with the egg and sugar, grate in quar- 
ter of a nutmeg, add one gill of milk, and prepared 
flour enough to make a sufficiently stiff paste to roll 
out, about a pound. Roll an eighth of an inch thick, 
cut out with a biscuit cutter, or an inverted cup and 



THE CHILDREN'S CHAPTER. 



123 



lay on a floured baking pan, and bake about twenty 
minutes in a moderate oven. 

221. Plain Gingerbread. — Partly melt one 
ounce of butter, stir it into half a pint of molasses, 
with a tablespoonful of ground ginger, and half a 
pint of boiling water, stir in smoothly half a pound 
of prepared flour, and pour the batter into a buttered 
baking pan ; bake it about half an hour in a quick 
oven, trying it with a broom straw, at the end of 
twenty minutes ; as soon as the straw passes through 
it without sticking, the cake is done. 

222. Strawberry Short-cake. — Rub two 
ounces of butter into a pound of prepared flour, mix 
it stiff enough to mould with about half a pint of 
milk ; put the dough upoi *ound tin plate, gently 
flattening with the roller ; bake it about twenty min- 
utes in a quick oven, trying it with a broom straw to 
be sure it is done, before taking it from the oven : 
let it cool a little, tear it open by first separating the 
edges all around with a fork, and then pulling it in 
two pieces ; upon the bottom put a thick layer of 
strawberries, or any perfectly ripe fruit, plentifully 
sprinkled with sugar; then lay on the fruit the upper 
half of the short-cake, with the crust down ; add an- 
other layer of fruit, with plenty of sugar, and serve 
it with sweet milk or cream. This is rather rich, 
but a small piece may be given to the children as a 
treat, at the noon dinner. 

223. Apple Custard. — Pare and core six 
apples; set them in a pan with a very little water, 
and stew them until tender; then put them in a 



124 THE COOKING MANUAL, 



pudding dish without breaking, fill the centres with 
sugar, and pour over them a custard made of a quart 
of milk, five eggs, four ounces of sugar, and a very 
little nutmeg ; set the pudding-dish in a baking-pan 
half full of water, and bake it about half an hour. 
Serve it either hot or cold, at the noon dinner. 



CHAPTER XIII. 



COOKERY FOR INVALIDS. 

224. Diet for Invalids. — There are three ali- 

mentary conditions in illness ; the first prevails where 
the system suffers from the reaction consequent upon 
over-taxation, when rest is the first demand ; then only 
palliative foods meet the calls of nature, those which 
give repletion to the sense of hunger, and tide the sys- 
tem over a certain period of relaxation and recupe- 
ration ; gelatinous soups, and gruels of arrowroot, 
sago, and tapioca, will do very well at this stage. The 
second condition, when the body, failing under the 
pressure of disease, needs an excess of nutrition, is 
serious enough to demand the interposition of the 
physician— the doctor is the prope? person to decide 
what shall be eaten ; we will offer only a few sugges- 
tions concerning refreshing drinks. At the third point, 
when the patient is beyond the reach of danger, when 
foods are ordered which shall yield the greatest pos- 
sible amount of nutrition, the culinary skill of the nurse 
may be displayed. It is here that we would give the 
paragraphs concerning highly nutritive foods. The 
reader will please to note that the quantities in this 
chapter are calculated for the use of one person. 

225. Gruels. — We have already said that in cer- 



126 THE COOKING MANUAL. 



tain physical conditions the lack of nutrition is what 
the body requires, — a period of comparative inaction, 
combined with repletion ; — in such a condition the 
following aliments will suffice. 

226. Arrowroot Gruel. — Mix one ounce cf 
arrowroot with sufficient cold water to make a 
smooth paste ; into this pour a gill or more of boiling 
water, stirring the mixture until it is quite clear ; 
sw r eeten it with a little sugar, and use it at once. 

227. Arrowroot Jelly. — Dissolve two tea- 
spoonfuls of Bermuda arrowroot in just enough cold 
water to mix it to a smooth liquid paste, stir it into a 
quarter of a pint of water boiling upon the fire, with 
two tablespoonfuls of white sugar; continue stirring 
until the mixture becomes clear, then remove from the 
fire and stir in one teaspoonful of lemon-juice, put 
into a mould wet with cold water until it is cold. If 
the patient's condition will permit, cream and sugar 
may be eaten with it. 

228. Arrowroot Wine Jelly. — Following the 
above process, make a jelly of one cup of boiling 
water, two teaspoonfuls of arrowroot, two teaspoonfuls 
of white sugar, one tablespoonful of brandy or three 
tablespoonfuls of wine. This jelly is more stimulating 
than the gruel, and may meet some especial cases ; 
but, unless used with brandy, for impaired digestive 
powers, we do not believe it to be of permanent value. 

229. Calf's Foot Jelly.— Thoroughly clean a 
calfs foot ; put it into an earthen jar, with half the 
rind of a fresh lemon, two gills of sweet milk, and one 
pint of cold water ; close the jar tightly, put it into a 



COOKERY FOR INVALIDS, 127 



moderate oven, and slowly bake it for three hours ; 
then strain and cool it, and remove all fat, before 
using ; it is bland and harmless. 

230. Sago Gruel. — Soak one ounce of sago, 
after washing it well in a pint of tepid water for two 
hours ; then simmer it in the same water for fifteen 
minutes, stirring it occasionally; then sweeten and 
flavor it to taste, and use at once. 

231. Sago Milk. — Prepare the sago as in pre- 
vious receipt, but boil it in milk instead of water; and 
when it has cooked for two hours it is ready for use. 

232. Tapioca Jelly. — Wash one ounce of tapi- 
oca, soak it over night in cold water, and then sim- 
mer it with a bit of lemon peel until it is thoroughly 
dissolved ; sweeten it to taste, and let it cool before 
using. 

233. Rice Caudle. — Mix an ounce of ground 
rice smoothly with a little cold water, and stir it into 
a pint of boiling water ; boil it for fifteen minutes, and 
then sweeten it to taste and flavor it with nutmeg. Use 
it warm or cold. 

234. Isinglass Milk. — Soak quarter of an ounce 
of clear shreds of isinglass in a pint of cold milk fcr 
*wo hours ; then reduce it by boiling to half a pint 

nd sweeten to taste. Cool it before using. 

235. Refreshing Drinks. — In feverish condi- 
tions cooling drinks, that is, beverages which are in 
themselves refrigerant, such as lemonade, and those 
which are made from aromatic herbs, are grateful and 
helpful to the patient, but pure, distilled or filtered 
water, is the best for invalids. Hot drinks lower the 



128 THE COOKING MANUAL. 



temperature of the body by evaporation ; excessively 
cold drinks check perspiration, and endanger con- 
gestion of some vital part ; but water of a moderate 
temperature is innocuous. Even in dangerous fevers 
the burning thirst of the sufferer can safely be as- 
suaged by the frequent administration of small bits of 
ice. In cases of incomplete nutrition, cocoa, choco- 
late, and other preparations of the fruit of the cocoa- 
palm, are invaluable adjuncts ; the active principle of 
all these is identical, and the chief nutritive element 
is oil. A very small quantity of cocoa will sustain life 
a long time. 

236. Filtered Water. — Put a quart of clear 
water over the fire, and just bring it to a boil ; remove 
it, and strain it three or four times through flannel ; 
then cool it in a covered jar or pitcher, and give it to 
the patient in small quantities as the condition re- 
quires. 

237. Jelly Water. — Mix one large teaspoonful 
of wild-cherry or blackberry jelly in a glass of cool 
water ; drink moderately, and at intervals. 

238. Flaxseed Lemonade. — Pour one quart 
of boiling water over four tablespoonfuls of whole 
flaxseed, and steep three hours covered. Then sweeten 
to taste, and add the juice of two lemons, using a lit- 
tle more water if the liquid seems too thick to be pal- 
atable. This beverage is very soothing to the irritated 
membranes in cases of severe cold. 

239. Barley Water. — Wash two ounces of 
pearl barley in cold water until it does not cloud the 
water ; boil it for five minutes in half a pint of water ; 



COOKERY FOR INVALIDS. 



129 



drain that off, put the barley into two quarts of clean 
water, and boil it down to one quart. Cool, strain, 
and use. Pearl barley largely contains starch and 
mucilage, and makes an excellent soothing and refresh 
ing draught in fevers and gastric inflammations. 

Nourishing Drinks. — These are useful when 
liquid nourishment is better suited to the invalid's 
condition than solid food. 

240. Iceland Moss Chocolate. — Dissolve 
one ounce of Iceland moss in one pint of boiling 
milk ; boil one ounce of chocolate for five minutes in 
one pint of boiling water ; thoroughly mix the two ; 
and give it to the invalid night and morning. This is 
a highly nutritive drink for convalescents. 

241. Egg Broth. — Beat an egg until it is frothy, 
stir into it a pint of boiling hot meat broth, free from 
fat, season it with a saltspoonful of salt, and eat it hot, 
with thin slices of dry toast ; it may be given to assist 
the patient in gaining strength. 

242. Egg Tea. — Beat the yolk of an egg in a cup 
of tea, and let the sick person drink it warm ; the 
yolk is more readily digested than the white, and has 
a better flavor ; and the tea is a powerful respiratory 
excitant, while it promotes perspiration, and aids the 
assimilation of more nourishing foods. 

243. Very strong Beef Tea, — {This tea con- 
tains every nutritious element of the beef.) — Cut two 
pounds of lean beef into small dice, put it into a 
covered jar without water, and place it in a moderate 
• 6* 



130 THE COOKING MANUAL. 



oven for four hours, then strain off the gravy, and 
dilute it to the desired strength with boiling water. 

244. Beef Tea. — (A quick preparation for im- 
mediate use.) — Chop one pound of lean beef fine, put 
it into a bowl, and cover it with cold water ; let it 
stand for fifteen or twenty minutes, and then pour both 
beef and liquid into a sauce-pan, and place them over 
the fire to boil from fifteen to thirty minutes as time 
will permit ; then strain off the liquid, season it slightly, 
and serve it at once. 

245. Farina Gruel. — Stir one ounce of farina 
into one pint of boiling water, and boil it down one 
half, using a farina kettle, or stirring occasionally to 
prevent burning, then add half a pint of milk, boil up 
once, and sweeten to taste. Use warm. Farina is a 
preparation of the inner portion of the finest wheat, 
freed from bran, and floury dust ; it contains an excess 
of nitrogenous, or flesh-forming material, readily 
absorbs milk or water in the process of cooking, is 
quickly affected by the action of the gastric juices ; 
and is far superior as a food to sago, arrowroot, tap- 
ioca, and corn starch. 

246. Nutritious Foods. — We have called at- 
tention to the fact that the nurse's most important 
office is exercised when the invalid begins to regain 
nealth ; the task of rebuilding exhausted vitality de- 
mands a thoughtful care that only a tender hearted 
woman can bestow; and lacking which the skill of 
the most enlightened physician is often set at naught. 
Happy the woman who can here assist the restoration 
of the vital powers : she holds in her own hands a 



COOKERY FOR INVALIDS. 13 1 



force which wealth cannot buy. To such ministering 
angels we dedicate this portion of our little work, in 
the hope that countless sick beds will be comforted 
thereby. 

247. Bread Jelly. — Remove the crust from a 
roll, slice the crumb, and toast it ; put the slices in 
one quart of water, and set it over the fire to simmer 
until it jellies ; then strain it through a cloth, sweeten 
it, and flavor it with lemon juice ; put it into a mould 
and cool it upon the ice before using. 

248. Crackers and Marmalade. — Toast 
three soda crackers, dip them for one minute in boil- 
ing water, spread them with a little sweet butter, and 
put between them layers of orange marmalade, or 
any other preserve or jelly ; put plenty upon the top 
cracker, and set them in the oven for two or three 

* minutes before serving. This makes a delicate and 
inviting lunch for convalescents. 

249. Chicken Jelly. — Skin a chicken, remov- 
ing all fat, and break up the meat and bones by pound- 
ing ; cover them with cold water, heat them slowly in 
a steam-tight kettle, and simmer them to a pulp ; then 
strain through a sieve or cloth, season to taste, and 
return to the fire without the cover, to simmer until 
the liquid is reduced one half, skimming off all fat. 
Cool to form a jelly. If you have no steam-tight ket- 
tle, put a cloth between the lid and any kettle, and 
the purpose will be served. 

250. Chicken Broth. — Dress a chicken or fowl, 
cut it in joints, put them in a chopping bowl, and chop 
them into small pieces, using flesh, bones, and skin. 



132 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



To every pound of the chicken thus prepared put one 
pint of cold water and one level teaspoonful of salt ; 
if pepper is desired it should be either enough cay- 
enne to lie on the point of a small pen-knife blade, or 
a half saltspoonful of ground white pepper. Put all 
these ingredients over the fire in a porcelain lined 
sauce-pan, bring them slowly to a boil, remove the pan 
to the side of the fire, where it will simmer slowly, the 
heat striking it on one side ; simmer it in this way 
for two hours, and then strain it through a napkin, set 
it to cool ; if any fat rises to the surface in cooling re- 
move it entirely. Eat it either cold, say half a tea- 
cupful when a little nourishment is required ; or 
warm a pint, and eat it with graham crackers at meal 
time. 

251. Beefsteak Juice. — Quickly broil a juicy 
steak, and after laying it on a hot platter, cut and press 
it to extract all the juice ; season this with a very lit- 
tle salt, and pour it over a slice of delicately browned 
toast ; serve it at once. 

252. Salmon Steak. — Choose a slice of salmon 
nearly an inch thick, remove the scales, wipe with a 
dry cloth, roll it first in cracker dust, then dip it very 
lightly in melted butter, and season with a dust of 
white pepper and a pinch of salt; then roll it again in 
cracker dust, and put it over a clear fire on a greased 
gridiron, to broil slowly, taking care that it does not 
burn before the flakes separate ; serve it with some 
fresh watercresses and plain boiled potatoes. (Any 
red-blooded fish may be used in the same way.) 

253. — Broiled Oysters. — Dry some large oys* 



COOKERY FOR INVALIDS. 



133 



ters on a napkin ; roll them in cracker dust, dip them 
in melted butter as for salmon steaks, again in cracker 
dust, dust over them a very little salt and white pep- 
per, or cayenne, and broil them on a buttered wr.e 
gridiron, over a clear fire . They will be done as soon 
as they are light brown. They make a very delicate 
and digestible meal. 



CHAPTER XIV. 



BREAD. 

The preparation of wheat and other grains, in the 
form of bread, is one of the most important of all cu- 
linary operations, and to many persons one of the most 
difficult. It is impossible to set exact rules as to the 
quantity of flour or liquid to be used, for the quality 
of the flour varies as much as that of the grain from 
which it is made ; and some varieties, excessive in 
gluten, will absorb nearly one-third more liquid than 
others, and produce correspondingly more bread. 
For this reason in buying flour we must choose that 
which contains the most gluten ; this kind will remain 
in a firm, compact mass when pressed in the hand, and 
will retain all the lines and marks of the skin ; or if 
mixed with water it will take up a great deal in pro- 
portion to its bulk, and will form a tough, elastic 
dough. Gluten in flour corresponds with the nitrates 
or flesh-formers in flesh, and abounds in hard winter 
wheat. The flour containing much of it is never ex- 
tremely white. 

The object of making bread, that is of mixing 
water with the flour and subsequently exposing the 
dough to intense heat, is to expand and rupture the 
cells of the grain so as to expose the greatest possible 



BREAD. 



135 



surface to the action of the digestive fluids ; this is 
accomplished in several ways ; by the formation of air 
ceils through the medium of acetous fermentation, as 
in yeast bread ; by the mechanical introduction of 
carbonic acid gas, as in aerated bread ; by the mixture 
with the flour of a gas-generating compound, which 
needs only the contact of moisture to put it in active 
operation ; and by the beating into the dough of at- 
mospheric air. No organic change in the elements 
of the flour is necessary, like that produced by the 
partial decomposition of some of its properties, in 
bread raised with yeast ; so long as proper surface is 
obtained for the action of the gastric juices, the pur- 
pose of raising is accomplished. Bread raised with- 
out fermentation can be made from the following 
receipt, and there is no question of its healthfulness. 

254. Aerated Homemade Bread. — Mix 
flour and water together to the consistency of a thick 
batter; then beat it until fine bubbles of air thor- 
oughly permeate it; for small biscuit, pour it into 
patty pans, and bake in a good brisk oven ; for bread 
in loaves more flour is thoroughly kneaded in with the 
hands, until the dough is full of air-bubbles, and then 
baked at once, without being allowed to stand. 

When bread is to be raised by the acetous fermenta- 
tion of yeast, the sponge should be maintained at a tem- 
perature of 89 0 Fahr. until it is sufficiently light, and 
the baking should be accomplished at a heat of over 
3 20 0 . When yeast is too bitter from the excess of 
hops, mix plenty of water with it, and let it stand for 
some hours ; then throw the water off, and use the 



136 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



settlings. When yeast has soured it may be restored 
by adding to it a little carbonate of soda or ammonia. 
When dough has soured, the acidity can be corrected 
by the use of a little carbonate of soda or ammonia. 
If the sponge of "raised bread " be allowed to over- 
work itself it will sour from excessive fermentation, 
and if the temperature be permitted to fall, and the 
dough to cool, it will be heavy. Thorough kneading 
renders yeast-bread white and fine, but is unneces- 
sary in bread made with baking-powder. Great care 
should be taken in the preparation of yeast for leav- 
ened bread, as the chemical decomposition insepara- 
ble from its use is largely increased by any impurity 
or undue fermentation. Experience and judgment 
are necessary to the uniform production of good 
bread ; and those are gained only by repeated trials. 
We subjoin one of the best receipts which we have 
been able to procure, for making yeast. 

255. Home-brewed Yeast. — Boil two ounces 
of the best hops in four quarts of water for half an 
hour, strain off the liquor and let it cool till lukewarm, 
and then add half a pound of brown sugar and two 
heaping tablespoonfuls of salt ; use a little of this 
liquor to beat up one pound of the best flour, and 
gradually mix in all of it with the flour; let it stand 
four days to ferment in a warm place near the fire, 
stirring it frequently. On the third day boil and 
mash three pounds of potatoes, and stir them into it. 
On the fourth day strain and bottle it ; it will keep 
good for months. 

256. Homemade Bread. — Put seven pounds 



BREAD. 



137 



of flour into a deep pan, and make a hollow in the 
centre ; into this put one quart of lukewarm water^ 
one tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of sugar, 
and half a gill of yeast \ have ready three pints more 
of warm water, and use as much of it as is necessary 
to make a rather soft dough, mixing and kneading it 
well with both hands. When it is smooth and shining 
strew a little flour upon it, lay a large towel over it 
folded, and set it in a warm place by the fire for four 
or five hours to rise ; then knead it again for fifteen 
minutes, cover it with the towel, and set it to rise once 
more ; then divide it into two or four loaves, and bake 
it in a quick oven. This quantity of material will 
make eight pounds of bread, and will require one hour's 
baking to two pounds of dough. In cold weather, the 
dough should be mixed in a warm room, and not al- 
lowed to cool while rising ; if it does not rise well, set 
the pan containing it over a large vessel of boiling 
water ; it is best to mix the bread at night, and let it 
rise till morning, in a warm and even temperature. 

257. Milk Bread. — Take one quart of milk, heat 
one-third of it, and scald with it half a pint of flour ; 
if the milk is skimmed, use a small piece of butter ; 
when the batter is cool, add the rest of the milk, one 
cup of hop yeast, half a tablespoonful of salt, and flour 
enough to make it quite stiff; knead the dough until 
it is fine and smooth, and raise it over night. This 
quantity makes three small loaves. 

258. Rice Bread. — Simmer one pound of rice in 
three quarts of water until the rice is soft, and the 
water evaporated or absorbed ; let it cool until it is 



138 THE COOKING MANUAL, 



only luke-warm ; mix into it nearly four pounds of 
flour, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and four tablespoonfuls 
of yeast ; knead it until it is smooth and shining, let 
it rise once before the fire, make it up into loaves with 
the little flour reserved from the four pounds, and 
bake it thoroughly. 

259. Potato Bread. — Take good, mealy boiled 
potatoes, in the proportion of one-third of the quantity 
of flour you propose to use, pass them through a coarse 
sieve into the flour, using a wooden spoon and adding 
enough cold water to enable you to pass them through 
readily; use the proper quantity of yeast, salt, and 
water, and make up the bread in the usual way. A 
saving of at least twenty per cent is thus gained. 

260. Pulled Bread. — Take from the oven an 
ordinary loaf of bread when it is about half baked, and 
with the fingers, while it is yet hot, pull it apart in egg- 
sized pieces of irregular shape : throw them upon tins, 
and bake them in a slow oven to a rich brown color. 
This bread is excellent to eat with cheese or wine. 

Where bread is made with baking powder the fol- 
lowing rules should be closely observed : If any short- 
ening be used, it should be rubbed into the flour before 
it is wet : cold water or sweet milk should always be 
used to wet it, and the dough should be kneaded im- 
mediately, and only long enough to thoroughly mix it 
and form it into the desired shape ; it should then be 
placed in a well-heated oven and baked quickly — other- 
wise the carbonic acid gas will escape before the ex- 
panded cells are fixed in the bread, and thus the light- 
ness of the loaf will be impaired. 



BREAD. 



139 



As a very large margin of profit is indulged in by 
the manufacturers of baking powders, we subjoin a good 
formula for making the article at home at a consider- 



* 261. Baking Powder. — Mix thoroughly by 
powdering and sifting together several times the follow- 
ing ingredients ; four ounces of tartaric acid, and six 
ounces each of bi-carbonate of soda, and starch. Keep 
the mixture in an air-tight can. 

The following receipts will be found useful and 
easy : 

262. Loaf Bread. — Sift together two or three 
times one pound of flour, three teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder, one saltspoonful of salt, and one teaspoonfui 
of fine sugar ; mix with enough cold sweet milk to 
make the dough of the consistency of biscuit ; or, ii 
you have no milk, use cold water. Work the dough 
only long enough to incorporate the flour well with 
the milk or water ; put it into a baking-pan buttered 
and slightly warmed, and set it immediately into a 
hot oven ; after about five minutes cover it with paper 
so that the crust may not form so quickly as to prevent 
rising ; bake about three-quarters of an hour. This 
bread is sweet and wholesome, and may be eaten by 
some persons whose digestion is imperfect, with greater 
safety than yeast-fermented bread. 

263. Breakfast Rolls.— Mix well by sifting, 
one pound of flour, three teaspoonfuls of baking pow- 
der, half a teaspoonfui of salt, and one heaping tea- 
spoonful of pulverized or fine sugar ; into a small por- 
tion of the above rub two ounces of lard, fine and 




140 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



smooth ; mix with the rest of the flour, and quickly 
wet it up with enough cold milk to enable you to roll 
it out about half an inch thick ; cut out the dough 
with a tin shape or with a sharp knife, in the form of 
diamonds, lightly wet the top with water, and double 
them half over. Put them upon a tin, buttered and 
warmed, and bake them in a hot oven. 

264. Tea Biscuit. — Mix as above, using the 
same proportions, and cutting out with a round bis- 
cuit-cutter ; when they are baked, wash them over with 
cold milk, and return them to the oven for a moment 
to dry. 

265. Finger Biscuit. — Mix as above, cut out 
with a sharp knife in strips three inches long, one inch 
wide, and one-quarter of an inch thick ; lay them upon 
a buttered tin so that they will not touch, brush them 
over with an egg beaten up with one tablespoonful of 
milk 7 and bake them in a hot oven. 

266. Cream Breakfast Rolls. — Mix as above, 
substituting cream for the milk in moistening the 
dough ; cut them out with an oval cutter, two inches 
long and one and a half inches wide ; brush the tops 
with cream, and pull them slightly lengthwise ; then 
fold them together, leaving a slight projection of the 
under side ; put them on a buttered tin, brush the 
tops with cream, and bake them in a hot oven. 

267. Breakfast Twist. — Mix as for breakfast 
rolls, cut in strips three inches long and half an inch 
thick \ roll each one out thin at the ends, but leave 
the centre of the original thickness ; place three strips 
side by side, braid them together, and pinch the ends 



BREAD. 



141 



to hold them ; when the twists are all made out, lay 
them upon a buttered tin, brush them over with milk, 
and bake them in a hot oven. A little fine sugar 
dusted over the tops glazes them and improves their 
flavor. 

Hot rolls and biscuits should be served well cov 
ered with a napkin. 

268. How to freshen stale Bread. — A loaf 
of stale bread placed in a close tin vessel, and steamed 
for half an hour will be completely freshened. 

269. Toast. — But few persons know how to pre- 
pare toast properly. It should be made with the aim 
of evaporating from the bread all the superfluous water, 
and transforming its tough and moist substance into 
digestible food : for this reason the slices should be ex- 
posed gradually to heat of a gentle fire, first upon one 
side and then upon the other, for one minute, and after 
that they may be toasted golden-brown ; at this stage 
it has become pure wheat farina, and is not liable to 
produce acetous fermentation in the stomach ; besides, 
it will now absorb the butter thoroughly, and both 
substances will be in condition to be freely subjected 
to the action of gastric juice, and consequently will 
be digested with ease. Dry toast should be sent to 
the table the instant it is made. Buttered toast should 
be set into the oven for about five minutes to render 
it crisp. 



CHAPTER XV. 
TARTS, PUDDINGS, CAKES, AND SWEETS. 

The following sweet dishes are selected from 
those taught in the N. Y. School of Cookery. With 
the exception of Puff Paste, they can easily be made, 
and are not specially injurious. Those composed 
partly of fruit are both palatable and wholesome, 
and are recommended to such readers of the M Cook- 
ing Manual* 9 as desire to increase their list of fancy 
desserts. 

The receipt for " Angels' Food" was procured re- 
cently in Washington, D. C. Our readers will per- 
haps recall the statement made lately by the press, 
that Mrs. Hayes was so fond of this cake as to have 
it sent to her from St. Louis. This was a rather ex- 
aggerated story, as that lady assured us ; but she 
does like the delicate compound, and it is made in 
Washington for her use. We are pleased to include 
the directions for making it in our new chapter. 

Strawberry Tart. — Make a plain pastry by 
rubbing lightly together half a pound of flour and 
quarter of a pound of lard, leaving the lard in large 
thin flakes, and handling it as little as possible ; wet 
it with enough cold water to make a stiff paste (about 
half a pint of water) ; roll it out quickly, and use it 
to line a plate, leaving enough of an edge to mould 



TARTS, PUDDINGS, CAKES, ETC. 143 



into an ornamental border. Fill the plate heaping 
full of ripe, sweet berries, and sprinkle over them two 
tablespoonfuls of sugar ; lay some narrow strips or 
diamonds of paste upon the top, and bake the tart in 
d moderate oven. 

Huckleberry Pie. —Make a plain pastry as 
directed in the last receipt ; roll it out, cut out the 
top crust first, and lay it aside, and use the remain- 
der of the paste for the bottom crust. After lining 
the pie plate fill it with ripe berries, well picked over 
and washed ; sweeten them with two tablespoonfuls 
of sugar, cover them with the top layer of paste, wet- 
ting the edges to make them adhere ; cut some holes 
in the top crust to permit the escape of steam, dust 
the pie with powdered sugar, and bake it in a moder- 
ate oven about half an hour. Be quite sure that 
both berries and under crust are done before taking 
the pie from the oven. If the berries are sour, more 
sugar must be used. 

Cherry Tart. — Prepare a crust or paste as di- 
rected in the preceding receipt ; cut a strip two 
inches wide and line the sides of a deep pie dish with 
it ; put a small cup, mouth down, in the dish, and 
heap around it a pound and a half of ripe cherries 
picked from the stems. Sweeten them with four ta- 
blespoonfuls of moist sugar, or more if they are sour ; 
brush the edge of the paste with cold water, put on 
the cover, ornament the edges of the tart, cut a hole 
in the middle of the cover, and bake it about half an 
hour in a rather quick oven. When it is done, dust 
it with powdered sugar and serve it. 



H4 THE COOKING MANUAL. 



Currant and Raspberry Tart.— Make this 
tart like the preceding one, substituting ripe red 
currants and raspberries for the cherries. Plums, 
peaches, and grapes can be made into tarts in the 
same way. 

Puff Paste and Cream Tarts.— Make a puff 
paste as follows : Wet the end of a marble or hard wood 
slab with a little water, lay upon it half a pound of but- 
ter ; work out all the salt and buttermilk by kneading 
with both hands, and then keep out about an ounce of 
the butter ; fold the rest in a floured napkin and lay it 
upon some ice. Next dry the slab thoroughly, sift 
upon it half a pound of fine white flour, form this in a 
circle or well ; sift about two ounces extra to dust the 
slab with ; into the well drop the ounce of butter re- 
served, and the yolk of one egg, and work them to a 
cream with the tips of the fingers ; to this gradually 
add the flour from the well, with enough ice-cold 
water poured on from time to time, as required, to form 
a dough about the consistency of short-cake (about 
one cup of water, more or less, will be used, according 
to the body of the flour) ; now work the paste about on 
the slab until it leaves it clean and free, and does not 
cling to the fingers ; take it up in a ball and dust 
the slab lightly with flour, lay on the paste, flatten it 
down, and beat it with the roller for five minutes, 
turning and doubling it constantly ; this process 
toughens it so that the butter will not break through 
in the subsequent manipulations. Next raise the 
paste and dust the slab again with flour ; lay the 
paste on it, and roll out to a square of about eight 



TARTS, PUDDfNGS, CAKES, ETC. US 



inches ; turn the face of the paste, or the part which 
has been next to the toller, down upon the slab, lay 
upon it the lump of cold butter, and fold the paste 
up and over it so as to cover every part ; turn the 
ball thus formed upside down, roll it out gently and 
evenly until the butter is incorporated with the paste, 
taking care not to break through the latter, as all the 
air-cells that can be gathered unbroken in the paste 
assist its rising ; now turn the sheet of paste gently 
about on the slab, so that every part may be rolled 
to the same thickness of about one quarter of an 
inch ; in turning the paste, lift its outer edge and 
gently lap it over the roller toward you, being sure 
not to tear it ; roll it gently inward, keeping it around 
the roller, and lifting it clear from the board when 
you wish to turn it or change its position in any way ; 
when you wish to replace it upon the slab, gently 
unwind it from the roller, letting the face, or part 
next the roller, fall upon the slab. *The paste is now 
ready for forming the flakes ; to do this, turn the 
face down, fold it in three thicknesses lengthwise, 
lay it in a long pan floured, *set this in a larger pan of 
ice, and place upon it a third pan filled with ice, so 
that the paste will be completely surrounded with 
ice ; let the pans stand for five minutes in the ice- 
box, or in the coolest place you can command, al- 
ways bearing in mind that the cooler the paste is 
kept the better it will be.* Repeat the process de- 
scribed between the asterisks six times in succession, 
every time rolling the paste out in a strip about 
three times as long as it is wide before folding, set- 



146 



THE COOKING MANUAL, 



ting the paste in ice for five minutes, turning the face 
of the paste with the upper f oldvdown to the slab, and 
folding in an opposite direction, or the butter will lie 
at one side, and the paste will rise unevenly in the 
baking. To finish. After the sixth time of folding, 
roll the paste out to the thickness of one quarter of 
an inch, and cut out in rounds with a sharp tin cut- 
ter of the size required, marking a circle an inch in 
diameter on the top of each with a small pastry cut- 
ter. For small tarts, or patties, have the paste one 
quarter of an inch thick ; for large ones, or vol-au- 
vents, have it about one third thicker ; for patties use 
two layers of paste, put one over the other after cut 
ting out, and wet the under layer with a soft brush 
dipped in cold water, brush the top of the second 
layer with an egg beaten up ; -this is called doree, or 
gilding, and the process gives the pastry a beautiful 
golden glaze. In forming vcl-au-vents, or large pas- 
tries, use three, or even four, thicknesses of the paste, 
putting them together as for patties, brushing the un- 
der layers with cold water, and gilding the top. 
Lastly, wet the baking pan with water instead of greas- 
ing it, lay the paste upon it, set it upon the ice for 
five minutes, in order that the layers may adhere, 
and put it in a moderate oven five minutes, so that 
all the air-cells will have a chance to expand ; then 
finish at a heat of about 300 0 Fahr., and be sure that 
the patties are done before taking them from the 
oven, or they will fall. Cut the little circle from the 
centre of the patties, and fill them with cream. 

Vanilla Cream. — Mix together two table- 



TARTS, PUDDINGS, CAKES, ETC. 147 



spoonfuls of corn starch, two of sugar, the yolks of 
two eggs, one teaspoonful of vanilla essence, and one 
pint of cold milk ; put these ingredients over the fire, 
and stir them constantly until they have boiled five 
minutes. Then use the cream to fill the patties or tarts. 

Cream Rissoles. — Roll the trimmings of the 
puff paste out, about one quarter of an inch thick ; 
cut it in small rounds ; put a teaspoonful of the 
cream in one half of each round, and turn the other 
half over to form a little turnover, wetting the edges 
to make them adhere. Either glaze the rissoles with 
beaten egg applied with a brush, and bake them in a 
quick oven, or fry them golden brown in smoking 
hot fat ; if they are fried, they should be laid for a 
moment on brown paper to free them from fat. 

Fruit Rissoles. — These delicacies are made 
like the cream rissoles, fruit of any kind, either very 
ripe, or stewed, being substituted for the cream in 
filling them. 

Sponge Pudding. — Cover the bottom and sides 
of a plain tin mould rather thickly with cold butter ; 
fill it two thirds full with stale sponge cake, pour 
over the cake a custard made of six eggs, a pint of 
milk, and quarter of a pound of sugar, and steam it 
one hour. To steam the pudding, set the mould 
containing it into a large saucepan with enough 
boiling water to reach two thirds up the sides of the 
mould, cover the saucepan, and boil the pudding an 
hour. The pudding can be used either hot or cold. 
When cold, it can be turned more easily out of the 
mould than while it is warm. 



14-3 THE COOKING MANUAL. 



Orange Pudding. — Pare and slice three sweet 
oranges, remove the seeds, and lay the slices in a but- 
tered tin mould ; pour over them a custard made as 
directed in the receipt for sponge pudding ; set the 
mould in a pan about half full of boiling water, and 
bake three quarters of an hour in a moderate oven. 
Use hot or cold. 

Cherry Pudding. — Mix three tablespoonfuls of 
flour with half a pint of milk, then add another half 
pint, an ounce of melted butter, a saltspoonful of 
salt, three well-beaten eggs, and a pound of cherries 
from which the stones have been removed. When 
the above ingredients are well mixed, tie them in a 
pudding-cloth which has been dipped in boiling 
water and thickly dusted with flour. Put the pud- 
ding into a large pot of boiling water, and boil it 
steadily for two hours, keeping the pot closely cov- 
ered. If the pot is allowed to boil uncovered, the 
pudding may be heavy. When it is done, the cloth 
can easily be taken off, and the pudding served hot 
with cream sauce. 

Cottage Pudding. — Sift together twice the 
following ingredients : Half a pound of flour, a salt- 
spoonful each of salt and ground cloves, and a tea- 
spoonful of any good baking powder. Beat two 
ounces, or two tablespoonfuls, of butter, four of 
sugar, and one egg to a cream ; add the flour to them 
quickly, and enough milk to make a thick cake bat- 
ter, about half a pint, put at once into a tin mould 
rubbed with cold butter, and bake without delay in a 
moderate oven. The pudding will be done in about 



TARTS, PUDDINGS, CAKES, ETC, 149 



twenty minutes, and can be tested with a clean broom 
straw ; if when the straw is run into the pudding it 
comes out clean, the pudding is done. Either of 
the following sauces may be used with it : 

Duchesse Sauce. — Beat to a cream the follow- 
ing ingredients, and use the sauce cold : Four 
ounces, or four tablespoonfuls, of sugar, two of but- 
ter, one egg, a tablespoonful of wine, spirit, or fruit 
juice, and a teaspoonful of any essence preferred for 
flavoring. 

Wine Sauce. — Put a tablespoonful of sugar in 
a saucepan over the fire, and let it brown without 
burning ; as soon as it is brown, add a scant pint of 
boiling water, six tablespoonfuls of sugar, the yellow 
rind of a lemon, or a teaspoonful of whole cloves, 
mace, and cinnamon, and boil slowly for fifteen min- 
utes. Then add two teaspoonfuls of cornstarch dis- 
solved in half a cup of cold water, boil up once, add 
a glass of wine, and the juice of a lemon if you have 
it ; strain, and use at once. 

Bread Pudding. — Put three quarters of a 
pound of fresh bread crumbs into a bowl with six 
ounces, or six tablespoonfuls, of sugar, two of butter, a 
saltspoonfui Gf salt, and a pint of boiling milk, and 
let them stand for ten minutes ; then add the yolks 
of six eggs beaten to a cream, and the whites whip- 
ped to a froth ; pour the pudding into a buttered 
mould, and steam it one hour in a large saucepan 
containing boiling water enough to reach half way to 
the top of the mould. Turn the pudding fnfttt the 
mould and serve it with cream sauce. 



ISO THE COOKING MANUAL 



Cream Sauce. — Stir together over the fire until 
they bubble one tablespoonful each of butter and 
flour ; then gradually mix with them one pint of boil- 
ing milk, and two tablespoonfuls of sugar ; as soon as 
the sauce boils up once, it is ready for use. 

Friar's Omelette. — Pare and core ten large 
apples, stew them until tender with two ounces, or 
two tablespoonfuls, of butter and half a pound of 
sugar. When quite soft, rub them through a colan- 
der, and add to them one egg well beaten ; butter 
the bottom and sides of a plain tin mould thickly with 
cold butter, cover it with a thick layer of soft bread 
crumbs, fill it with the prepared apples, upon the top 
of which put another thick layer of bread crumbs, and 
bake for half an hour in a moderate oven. When the 
omelette is brown on the sides, turn it from the 
mould, dust it with powdered sugar, and serve it hot. 

Petit s-Claoux, or Cream Puffs. — Melt one 
ounce, or one tablespoonful, of butter over the fire in 
one pint of boiling water ; when the water boils add 
to it one saltspoonful of salt and four tablespoonfuls 
of flour, and beat it thoroughly for five minutes ; take 
the saucepan off the fire, break two eggs into the 
paste, and beat it until they are perfectly mixed with 
it ; then break in four more eggs, two at a time, 
beating thoroughly. Butter a baking pan, dust it with 
flour, and put the petit-choux paste on it by the table- 
spoonful ; brush the puffs with beaten egg, and bake 
them in a moderate oven about half an hour, until 
they are light brown. Cool them ; cut them open at 
one side, and fill them with vanilla cream, made as 



TARTS, PUDDINGS, CAKES, ETC, 15 1 



directed in the receipt for cream tarts, or with 
whipped cream. 

Currant Buns. — Sift one pound of flour three 
times with a tablespoonful of baking-powder and a 
teaspoonful of salt. Put irinto a bowl and add to it 
quarter of a pound of butter, chopping it in with a 
knife ; then mix in quarter of a pound of currants, 
washed, dried, and floured, two ounces of citron 
sliced, two ounces, or two tablespoonfuls, of sugar, 
and a teaspoonful of caraway seeds ; next beat two 
eggs for two minutes, mix them into half a pint of 
milk, and add it to the flour ; as soon as the milk is 
added, mix the buns very quickly, put them in small 
lumps on a floured pan, and bake them at once in a 
moderate oven. When they begin to brown, brush 
their tops with a little milk and sugar, and return 
them to the oven to finish baking. They will bake 
in about twenty minutes. 

Ramakins. — Grate two ounces of cheese, mix 
it w T ith a teaspoonful of flour, two well beaten eggs, 
two tablespoonfuls each of cream and melted butter ; 
add one dust of cayenne, and fill into little buttered 
dishes or tins. -Bake the ramakins fifteen minutes 
in a moderate oven, and serve them hot in the dishes 
in which they were baked. 

Chocolate Macaroons. — Beat the whites of two 
eggs to a stiff froth, and stir gently into them the fol- 
lowing ingredients, which must previously be well 
mixed by sifting them together : two ounces of grated 
chocolate, four ounces of powdered sugar, and one 
ounce of flour. Drop the mixture by the teaspoon- 



THE COOKING MANUAL. 



ful on buttered pans, and bake slowly for about 
twenty minutes ; sift the macaroons with powdered 
sugar while warm. 

Almond Macaroons. — Pound four ounces ol 
blanched almonds fine in a mortar with one table- 
spoonful of rose-water ; beat the whites of: four eggs 
to a stiff froth, and then gently stir into them half a 
pound of powdered sugar and the pounded almonds ; 
drop them by the teaspoonful upon buttered pans or 
white paper, dust them lightly with powdered sugar, 
and bake them slowly for about twenty minutes in a 
rather cool oven. Almonds are blanched by letting 
them lay in boiling water for a few moments until the 
skin rubs off easily with a cloth. 

Aberfrau Cakes. — Beat half a pound of butter 
to a cream with half a pound of granulated sugar ; 
mix in gradually half a pound of sifted flour ; turn 
the cake out on a floured pastry board, roll it to the 
thickness of quarter of an inch, cut it in rounds with 
a tin cutter, and score the tops in diamonds with a 
sharp knife ; put the cakes on a pan dusted with 
flour, and bake them fifteen minutes in a moderate 
oven. 

Banbury Cakes. — Make a puff paste as direct- 
ed on page 144 ; make a fruit mince as follows : Pick 
over, wash, and dry one pound of currants ; mince 
quarter of a pound of fresh orange peel, and quarter 
of a pound of candied lemon or citron ; beat half a 
pound of butter to a cream, add it to the above 
named ingredients, with half an ounce of ground cin- 
na:non ? and an ounce and a half of allspice ; wheis 



TARTS, PUDDINGS, CAKES, ETC. 15 3 



the mince is thoroughly mixed it can be kept in a 
cool place and be used at any time. Cut the puff 
paste in small rounds, put it in layers with the mince, 
three or four deep, wetting the edges with the beaten 
vhite of an egg to hold them together ; have a layei 
of paste on the top, brush the top with beaten white 
of egg and sugar, and bake the cakes fifteen minutes 
in a quick oven. These little cakes or tarts may be 
used either hot or cold. 

Citron Cake. — Beat the yolks of six eggs thor- 
oughly ; mix with them half a pound of granulated 
sugar, ten ounces of sifted flour, half a pound of but- 
ter beaten to a cream, quarter of a pound of citron 
sliced thin or chopped, and a wineglassful of 
brandy ; when these ingredients are thoroughly 
mixed, beat the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth, add 
them lightly and quickly to the cake, put it into a 
well-buttered mould, and bake in a rather quick oven 
about three quarters of an hour. If the oven browns 
the top of the cake too quickly, cover it with but- 
tered paper to protect it from the heat. Try the 
cake with a clean broom straw before taking it from 
the oven to be quite sure that it is well done. 

Flame Cake. — Soak stale cake in brandy or 
rum, set the liquor on fire, and serve the cake while 
flaming. 

Diet Cake. — Dry quarter of a pound of flour in 
the mouth of the oven, without browning it ; roll and 
sift it fine ; mix it with half a pound of granulated 
sugar, four well-beaten eggs and ten drops of almond 
essence ; place these ingredients near enough the fire 



154 THE COOKING MANUAL. 



to become lukewarm, then put them into a buttered 
mould and bake the cake about half an hour in a 
moderate oven. Protect it from burning with but- 
tered paper, and before taking it from the oven, be 
sure it is done. 

Angels' Food. — Beat the whites of eleven eggs 
to a stiff froth ; sift into them a little at a time, ten 
ounces, or one and a half tumblers, of powdered 
sugar, mixing carefully and lightly ; then sift five 
ounces, or one tumbler, of flour four times, add a level 
teaspoonful of cream of tartar to the flour, sift it 
again, and then sift it into the eggs and sugar a little 
at a time, mixing it carefully and lightly ; when all the 
flour is used, add a teaspoonful of vanilla essence to 
the cake, and put it into a new tin cake-pan or mould 
not buttered or lined. Bake it in a moderate oven 
about three quarters of an hour, testing it with a broom 
straw ; when the straw comes out clean the cake is 
done. Let the cake cool gradually in the mouth of 
the oven with the door open. When the cake is 
quite cold loosen it from the sides of the pan with a 
knife and turn it out. The. success of this delicious 
sweet depends upon preserving its lightness ; if the 
eggs are beaten quite stiff, and the flour and sugar 
very carefully sifted and stirred in, it will be light 
Do not open the oven for fifteen minutes after the 
cake has been put into it. The pure white of the in- 
terior contrasts prettily with the golden brown surface, 
and the delicacy of its substance well merits its name. 

Cake Frosting. — Sift together quarter of a 
pound of powdered sugar and one teaspoonful of 



TARTS, PUDDINGS, CAKES, ETC. 155 



corn starch ; beat the white of an egg to a stiff froth, 
and sift into it the sugar and corn starch, stirring the 
fixture until it is quite smooth. Then add a tea- 
spoonful of lemon juice, and put the frosting over 
*he cake while it is hot, smoothing with a broad- 
^)laded knife. Dry it in the mouth of a cool oven, 
being careful not to color it by heat. 

Strawberry Icing. — This is made as in the last 
receipt, omitting the lemon juice, and coloring it to 
the right shade with strawberry juice ; it is applied 
like the frosting. 

Almond Icing. — Blanch quarter of a pound of 
almonds by letting them stand in scalding hot water 
until the skins can easily be rubbed off with a soft 
cloth ; then pound them in a mortar, putting in five 
or six at a time, after chopping them in small bits, 
and adding five drops of rose-water every three min- 
utes, until they form a smooth paste, to prevent 
oiling ; when the almonds are quite smooth, mix 
with them the white of an egg beaten stiff, and quar- 
ter of a pound of sifted sugar ; apply this icing to the 
cake while hot, cover it with a layer of plain frosting, 
and dry as above in the mouth of a cool oven. 

Fruit Custard. — Beat six eggs thoroughly ; add 
to them one cupful, or half a pint, of milk, and the 
same quantity of fruit syrup, or the strained juice of 
any sweet fruit such as oranges, berries, ripe peaches, 
or cherries ; stir in quarter of a pound of sugar ; 
strain this custard into a pudding dish or mould, set 
the dish into a pan containing enough hot water to 
reach half way to its top, and bake it until firm in a 



l$6 TJIE COOKING MANUAL. 



moderate oven. The time required will be about 
twenty minutes ; and the custard can be tested by 
running a clean broom straw into it ; as soon as the 
straw comes out clean the custard is done. It can 
be used hot or cold. 

Velvet Cream. — Put one ounce of gelatine or 
isinglass over the fire with quarter of a pound of 
white sugar, and one pint of sweet fruit juice or 
syrup. Stir until the gelatine is dissolved, and then 
strain and cool ; when the above ingredients are 
cool, mix with them one pint of cream, and pour 
them into a mould ; let the cream stand until it is 
quite firm, then turn it from the mould and serve it 
cold. 

Whipped Cream. — Sweeten a pint of cream 
with two tablespoonfuls of sugar, flavor it with thirty 
drops of lemon or orange essence, and whip it lightly 
with an egg whip for one minute ; let it stand with- 
out whipping for a minute, and then with a spoon or 
skimmer remove the froth and put it into a sieve or 
colander to drain ; repeat the whipping, pausing fre- 
quently to allow the froth to set, and removing it to , 
the sieve to drain. When all has been taken off that 
can be raised, set the sieve in a cool place until the 
whipped cream is wanted for use. 

Charlotte Russe. — Line a plain tin mould 
with slices of sponge cake, fill it with whipped cream, 
prepared as directed in the preceding receipt, and 
keep it in a cool place until wanted for use. It can 
easily be turned out of the mould ; and the cream, if 
thoroughly whipped, will hold the cake in place. 



TARTS, PUDDINGS, CAKES, ETC. 



iS7 



Wine Jelly, — Put two ounces of gelatine into a 
large bowl with one pint of cold water, the yellow 
rind and juice of three lemons, six whole cloves, a 
stick of cinnamon, and a pound of white sugar ; let 
it stand fifteen minutes ; then add one quart of boil- 
ing water, and stir until the gelatine and sugar are 
dissolved. Strain, add one pint of wine, and pour 
into moulds wet in cold water ; let the jelly cool, 
and then put it in an ice-box, or a very cold place, 
until it grows firm. It is always best to make wine 
jelly the day before it is needed, in order that it may 
be perfectly firm. The juice of any fruit may be 
substituted for the lemon, if the latter cannot be pro- 
cured. 

To Clarify Jelly. — If the gelatine used is or- 
dinarily good, the jelly will be a clear light brown 
color, nearly transparent. If it is desired quite trans- 
parent and sparkling it can be clarified as follows : 
After it is strained, and before the wine is added, it 
should be put over the fire with the whites and shells 
of two eggs mixed slightly with two tablespoonfuls of 
cold water ; it should be allowed to come to the boil- 
ing point, when the egg will rise to the surface of the 
liquid ; the saucepan containing it should then be set 
at the back of the fire where it will not boil, until the 
egg collects in a cake upon the surface, and the jelly 
looks clear beneath ; it should then be strained, with- 
out squeezing, through a fine napkin or jelly bag, 
care being taken not to let any particles of egg pass 
through ; the wine should be added, and the jelly 
cooled as directed above. 



IS 8 THE COOKING MANUAL. 



Apple Fritters —Pare three apples ; slice 
them half an inch thick, remove the cores, and lay 
the slices for an hour in the following mixture, turn- 
ing them over every fifteen minute" ; mix together 
two tablespoonfuls of sugar, one teaspoonful of ground 
spice, one glass of wine, and pour upon the apples. 
At the end of an hour dip the slices into a batter 
made as follows : lift each one out on a fork, and fry 
the fritters golden brown in smoking hot fat, laying 
them for a minute on brown paper to free them from 
grease. Arrange them on a dish in a circle, and dust 
them with powdered sugar. 

Prying Batter. — Mix together in a bowl four 
tablespoonfuls of flour, one of olive oil, a saltspoon- 
ful of salt, the yolks of two eggs, and enough cold 
water to make a stiff batter, about half a pint ; the 
batter should be stiff enough to hold on its surface 
the drops from the mixing spoon. Just before using 
the batter add to it the whites of the two eggs beaten 
to a stiff froth. This batter may be used with any 
other kind of fruit, or with chopped oysters or clams, 
to make oyster and clam fritters. 

Grape Fritters. — Choose large, ripe grapes, 
wipe each one, throw them into batter prepared as 
above, and fry them as directed in the same receipt. 
California and Malaga grapes, which are very large, 
firm, and sweet, make the best fritters. 

Peach Balls. — Wash quarter of a pound of rice 
in three waters ; put it over the fire in one quart of 
boiling water with a teaspoonful of salt, and boil it 
until tender, about half an hour. Drain oil the 



TARTS, PUDDINGS, CAKES, ETC. 1 59 



water, wipe the saucepan, butter it all over very 
lightly, and put the rice back into it over the fire ; 
add to it two ounces, or two tablespoonfuls, of sugar, 
the beaten yolks of two eggs, and one gill, or half a 
cupful, of milk, and beat the mixture to a smooth 
paste ; then set the saucepan at the back of the stove 
where the rice will not burn, and let it stand until 
the milk is so far absorbed that the paste is quite 
thick ; it will then be ready to form the balls. Pare 
half a dozen perfectly ripe peaches, or use canned 
fruit ; cool the rice paste so that it can be used with- 
out burning the hands ; wet the left hand in cold 
water lay enough paste upon it to make a covering 
for a peach, and flatten it to the thickness of half an 
inch with the bowl of a tablespoon dipped in cold 
water ; lay a peach on it, dust it with powdered 
sugar, and close the rice paste up over it so as to form 
a ball, taking care to keep the paste of an equal thick- 
ness all around the fruit. Roll the balls as soon as 
they are formed in rolled and sifted cracker or bread 
crumbs, dip them in the whites of the two eggs, 
beaten for a minute, roll them the second time in the 
crumbs, and fry them in hot fat. The fat is ready 
for frying when a thin blue smoke rises from it, or 
when a piece of bread thrown into it rises quickly to 
the top and rapidly colors. The peach balls will be 
done as soon as they are golden brown ; they should 
be laid on brown paper for a minute to free them from 
grease, and then dusted with powdered sugar. They 
can be used either hot or cold. 



IND 



EX. 



A la mode beef 81 

Anchovies 37 

Apple Cake 122 

" Custard 123 

Arrowroot Jelly 126 

Asparagus with melted butter. ... 92 

Bacon Roly-poly. 113 

Baking Powder 139 

Barley Broth with Vegetables. . . 107 

Barley Water 128 

Batter for Frying 47 

Bay-leaves > . . .. 20 

Beans, fried 98 

Beef, to choose 16 

Beefsteak for children 120 

" juice 132 

" to broil 43 

Beef, Roast, with Yorkshire Pud- 
ding 69 

" Portuguese 43 

Beets, baked 93 

Biscuit 140 

Blackberry Jam. 119 

Blackfish, baked 32 

Birds, to choose 18 

Boiled Dishes 78 

Bouquet of Sweet Herbs 20 

Brains, fried, with Tomato Sauce 50 

Bread , 134 

" Aerated, Homemade 135 

" and Butter, English 39 

" Homemade 136 

" how to freshen stale 141 

" Loaf 139 

" Milk 136 

" Potato 138 

" Pulled 138 

*' Rice 136 

Breakfast Rolls and Twist. . . . 139, 140 

Brussels Sprouts 93 

Bubble and Squeak 44 

Butter, Epicurean 40 

Ma%tre d' Hotel 33 

Cabbage, Stuffed 94 

Caifs Foot Jelly 126 

" Liver, larded 51 

Caramel 24 

Carrot Stew 99 

Cauliflower, baked 94 

Cheese Pudding 103 

" Straws 39 

Chicken, broiled for children. , . . 120 

" Broth 131 

" Fricassee 55 

" fried Spanish style 55 

«« Jelly 131 



Chicken minced "with Macaroni. 56 

" Roast 7« 

Children's Chapter, The 110 

Chops, broiled 119 

Chowder, St. James 34 

Clams, to choose 19 

Cock-a-leeky . 111 

Cod, boiled with Oyster Sauce. . 31 

Conde Crusts 30 

Consomme 25 

Cookies „ 122 

Crabs, to choose > . . . 19 

Crackers and Marmalade 131 

Croutons 43 

Currants, ripe 119 

Diet for Brain Workers 15 

" for children 116 

" for Invalids 125 

" for Rapid Workers 15 

" for Steady Workers 15 

Drinks, nourishing 129 

" refreshing 127 

Duck, Roast, with Watercresses.. 75 

" Salmi of 57 

" to choose 17 

Eggs, au gratin 59 

" boiled for children 120 

" Broth , 129 

" poached 25 

" stuffed 59 

" Tea 129 

Entrees 51 

Farina 130 

" Gruel 130 

" with Fruit 122 

Fillet of Sole 34 

Fish, a la bonne eau 31 

" d I'eau de sel. 31 

" a la Hollandaise 31 

" au court bouillon 3t 

" au bleu 31 

" Cakes, Club House 35 

" Chowder 34 

" Pudding 104 

" to choose 19 

" Warmed up 36 

Flaxseed Lemonade 128 

Flour, to choose 134 

Foods, Carbonaceous 15 

" Farinaceous 101 

" Flesh-forming 15 

** for Children .... 118 

" Heat S 1 

" Nitrogenous 15 

" Nutritious • 130 



INDEX. 



fWcemeat for Poultry 74 

Fowls., boiled with Oyster Suure. 82 

" Grilled 56 

14 to choose . 17 

Fruit for Children. .... 117 

" to choose 19 

Gammon DumpliDj - 112 

Geese, to choose 17 

Gingerbread 123 

Glaze 69 

Golden Buck. . . . 38 

Goose, Roast, with Onioa SHiiVv* . 76 

Gravy for Roast Meat. . . . . 70 

Green Peas . 92 

Gruels 125 

Ham and Beans., .98 

Ham, boiled with Made>n 'yfi .r : 80 

Hare, civet of . 57 

" Jugged . 58 

'* to choose 18 

Haslet Ragout in 

Herbs, sweet , 19 

Herrings, pickle'' 37 

Iceland Moss CLc /Jl 129 

Isinglass Millt.. 127 

Italian Cb«es«* . . . in 

Telly V.'ate" 128 

Jelly, Br'Ad 131 

Kidneys, Lro> r id 49 

" stowed 44 

Kolcannon 99 

Kromeskyc with Spanish Sauce. . 47 

Lamb, epigramme of. 45 

Larding 51 

Lentils 101 

" boiled 104 

•* fried . . . .- 105 

" stewed 105 

Lettuce stuffed . . . . 99 

Liver Rolls 49 

Lobsters, to choose.. 19 

Macaroni . 63 

** Milanaise style 65 

" with Bechamel Sauce. 64 

'« with Cheese 56 

" with Tomato Sauce. . . 66 

" Timbale of.. 66 

Mackerel, pickled 106 

Marinade for beef 81 

Marketing 15 

Mayonnaise 89 

Mock Crab 39 

Mushrooms, baked 99 

" Pudding 95 

Mussels, to choose 19 

Mutton haricot 45 

Leg of. 79 

•* Ragout 114 



Mutton Stew 

" three dishes from neck of. 

" to choose 

Norfolk Dumplings 

Oatmeal Porridge 

Onions, glazed 

" Saratoga 

Omelettes, how to make 

" Oriental style 

Plain 

" Spanish style 

" with Cheese 

" with Ham 

" with Herbs 

14 with Mushrooms 

" with Oysters 

" with Preserves 

" with Tongue 

Oysters, broiled 

" scalloped 

" to choose 

Ox-heart, baked 

Parmesan Cheese 

Parsnips, stewed 

Partridge, roast 

"« to choose 

Peas and Bacon 

Pease Pudding 

Pheasants, to choose 

Pigeons, broiled. 

" to choose 

Pigs' Feet, broiled 

" fried 

Pig's Tongue and Brains 

Polenta 

Pork Chops with Curry 

" Cutlets, broiled 

" neck of 

" Pie, English...., 

" Roast, with Apple Sauce . . 

" to choose 

Poultry, to choose 

Potatoes, baked 

" Bermuda 

" boiled 

** boiled for children 

" boiled in jackets 

*' Duchesse 

" Lyonnaise 

** Parisian 

" Pudding 

*' new 

" Saratoga 

" Snow 

" stuffed 

Pot-au-feu 

Quail, to choose 

Red Cabbage 



ic§ 

16 
105 
103 

P 

60 

63 
60 
62 
61 
62 
61 
62 
62 

63 
61 
152 
37 

!9 

13 
64 
100 



114 
102 
18 
57 
17 
54 
iog 
no 
104 
55 
53 
log 

54 
72 
16 

16 

I2T 

97 
95 

121 
97 
75 
96 
42 

106 
97 
97 

c5 

18 
94 



INDEX. 



Salad, 



Red Herrings with Potatoes 103 

Relishes > 37 

Rice, boiled.. 54 

" Caudle 127 

Roasts 68 

" to froth 69 

*' to glaze 69 

to test 69 

Rump Steak 43 

Sago Gruel 127 

Milk . 127 

Asparagus 85 

Cauliflower 85 

" Dandelion 85 

" Green Pea 86 

! •« Mint 85 

" Nasturtium 86 

" Oil...,. 84 

" Orange 86 

" Shad-roe 85 

" Spinach 86 

** Spring 84 

" Tomato 86 

'* Watercress. 85 

Salad Sauce, Anchovy 88 

Cream 87 

Egg.. 88 

English 87 

Green Remolade. . 88 

Hot _ 88 

Mayonnaise 88 

Oil....... 

Piquante . 
Ravigote. . 
Remolade. 
Romaine . 

Salmon Steak 

Salt Cod with Parsnips. 

Sardines 

" Sandwiches . . . 
Sauce, Apple. 



Bread 

Caper 

Cranberry 

Dutch 

Madeira 

Mint, cold, 

Mint, hot 

Onion. . , 

Oyster 

Piquante 

Robert 

Romaine 

Spanish 

Tomato 

Vanilla Cream 

White, with Eggs. . 



59: 



87 

88 

87 
89 
132 
105 
37 
36 
73 
65 
77 
79 
74 
3& 
80 
72 
72 
76 
82 
46 
53 
76 
46 
, 66 
67 
52 



Sauce, White, without Eggs 56 

Scollops, to choose 19 

Scotch Broth with Meat 27 

" without Meat 26 

Scotch Crowdie 102 

Shad, broiled 33 

Sheeps' Kidneys, broiled 49 

" Tongues with Spinach... 4? 

Side Dishes 41 

Smelts, fried 33 

Sole, fillet of. 34 

Soup, clear 25 

" to clarify 23 

" to flavor, thicken, and color 24 

" Lentil.' 29 

"i Macaroni 26 

" Pea 29 

" Potato 102 

" Rice and Tomato 26 

" Sorrel 28 

" Spinach 27 

" Vermicelli 26 

Spaghetti 64 

Spinach, boiled 49 

Stuffing for meat 53 

" Veal 71 

" Sage and Onion.. 76 

Strawberry Shortcake 123 

String Beans , 90 

Tapioca Jelly 127 

Toad-in-the-hole .. 112 

Toast 141 

Tomatoes, broiled 99 

stuffed 98 

Tripe and Onions 113 

Tripe, roasted no 

Turkey, Roast, with Cranberry 

Sauce 73 

Turkey, to choose. 73 

Turnips, baked £5 

Veal, Blanquette of 51 

" Roast Loin of 71 

" Stuffed 52 

" to choose .... 16 

Vegetables 91 

" to choose. 19 

" to boil 91 

Venison, to choose , 28 

Water, filtered 128 

Welsh Rarebit 38 

Wild Duck, Roast 77 

" to choose 18 

Wild Goose, to choose 18 

Woodcock, to choose 18 

Yeast Homebrewed.. 137 

" how to restore bitter 136 

" how to restore sour 136 

Yorkshire Pudding 



INDEX. 



TARTS, PUDDINGS, CAKES, ETC, 



Aberfrau Cakes 151 

Almond Icing 155 

" Macaroons 151 

Angel's Food 154 

Apple Fritters 158 

Banbury Cakes 151 

Bread Pudding 149 

Cake Frosting 154 

Chailotte Russe 156 

Cherry Pudding 148 

" Tarts 143 

Chocolate Macaroons 151 

Citron Cake 153 

Cottage Pudding 148 

Cream Puffs 150 

" Rissoles 147 

" Sauce 150 

" Tarts 144 

Currant and Raspberry Tarts 144 

u Buns 151 

Diet Cake 153 

Duchesse Sauce <> 149 



Flame Cake 153 

Friars Omelette. 150 

Fruit Custard 155 

'* Rissoles , 147 

Frying Batter 158 

Grape Fritters. 158 

Huckleberry Pie 143 

Jelly, to clarify 157 

Orange Pudding 148 

Peach Balls 158 

Petiis-choux 150 

Puff Paste 144 

Ramakins 151 

Sponge Pudding 147 

Strawberry Icing 155 

" Tarts .......142 

Vanilla Cream 146 

Velvet Cream 156 

Whipped Cream ... 156 

Wine Jelly 157 

H Sauce.,.. ......149 



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